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I forget how recent it was, but GM did have a rather long TSB and also sold a flushing package to go with it which was used for aluminum and brass.
It used oxalic acid (wood bleach) and washing soda as a neutralizer. I believe the EPA caused it to be discontinued. If I remember correctly Prestone made it for them and they themselves no longer sell that comparable kit.
A common mistake when doing a flush is to not use it with a new radiator, but with the old one that will be replaced.
Here is a link for a great price with free shipping on a rad. I've probably bought at least 15 from them in the past and never a problem.
Really a flush is for the engine and not the rad at this price. https://www.sunbeltradiators.com/par...r/2006/22l-l4/
That is a really good price and WITH free shipping.
Thanks
Mike
I have a new radiator on order and a new ACDelco 131-158 t-stat. I was wanting to do the work this weekend but not sure if the radiator will be here.
Donbrew- you said to be careful with flushing agents and that GM recommends no chemical flushes. So, will just regular water from a garden hose work?
I will have the old radiator and thermostat removed at the time of flushing?
Will distilled water from the grocery store work to mix the DexCool with to get a 50/50 mix?
Last edited by Michael_e; 06-07-2018 at 09:38 AM.
Reason: cleared a cut/paste
GM says use "clean, drinkable" water. If your tap water is very hard you can get demineralized water, distilled is not necessary. You will find all kinds of opinions from amateur chemists on the interwebs, I am quoting from the Factory Service Manual.
The thing is that the engine is aluminium alloy that reacts with chemical differently than old fashioned cast iron, which most off the shelf preparations are designed for, and mechanics are used to.
Look at the bottom of the coolant recovery tank, you will probably see a lot of sand, maybe enough to clog the hose. That is the corrosion from the alloy. Don't forget to drain the bottle.
I just spent some time looking/searching thru the 'How to" section and didn't find anything regarding radiator removal/replacement. Is it just that simple? The car is not here at the moment so I just can't walk out to have a look. But I do remember a couple of hold down brackets. Just remove those brackets and all the hoses attached to the radiator and wiggle it out??
I have a new radiator on order and a new ACDelco 131-158 t-stat. I was wanting to do the work this weekend but not sure if the radiator will be here.
Donbrew- you said to be careful with flushing agents and that GM recommends no chemical flushes. So, will just regular water from a garden hose work?
I will have the old radiator and thermostat removed at the time of flushing?
Will distilled water from the grocery store work to mix the DexCool with to get a 50/50 mix?
You must do the flush WITH the old radiator still installed and the tstat removed. You want coolant flow and you do not want to plug up a new radiator.
I will post a GM TSB that instructs use for a chemical flushing agent. Perfectly fine if you follow the directions. Aluminum has been around in GM engines forever, intakes, heater cores, radiators, heads and later complete engines. Part of the flushing process is to neutralize the cleaning agent.
As far as using tap water, I certainly would not. It can contain all kinds of chemicals and minerals. Why would one put that in the system. The minerals at least react with temperature and calcify in the system.God only knows what the chemicals do. At least distilled water only. There is a reason why the premixed antifreezes advertise using deionized water, one step more pure than distilled. Remember GM wrote instructions for all kinds of owners, including the oners that would fill the system with water from a muddy puddle.
If your system looks clean internally, then by all means just do a thorough water rinse.
If you feel it needs cleaning then here is the TSB. It's a long serious procedure, but remember than over 80% of engine failures stem from cooling issues, so do it correctly.
It applies to more than just Dexcool problems.
Tsb 99-06-02-012D
This bulletin is being revised to include additional model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-06-02-012C (Section 06 -- Engine).
Condition
Some customers may comment that the heater is inoperative, blows cold air, engine may exhibit an overheat condition or the coolant reservoir has rust in it.
Cause
Vehicles equipped with DEX-COOL® coolant, which may have been operated for extended periods of time with a low coolant level, usually in excess of 32,000 km (20,000 mi), may be susceptible to the formation of a rust-like material in the cooling system.
Correction
Flush the cooling system using the repair procedures that follow.
Parts and equipment required/suggested for this correction are listed below.
• 1 each *Prestone® Flush and Fill Kit #AF-KITP U.S. (#00050 in Canada). This kit can be obtained from your local parts supplier and can be used on all vehicles repaired under this procedure. Save it after performing the repair, as it is reusable.
• 1 each *Prestone® Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner, GM P/N 12346500 - 1 per vehicle. This cleaner is in powder form and contains a neutralizer. Do not substitute other cleaners. The diluted cleaners that are available in liquid form are not recommended for this repair.
• 5.7 L (6 qt) of 100% (non-diluted) DEX-COOL® coolant (GM Spec 6277M).
• 1 each new thermostat, GM P/N 12563335.
• 2 each new radiator cap, GM P/N 15075565.
• 1 each *Prestone® yellow funnel. This funnel can also be obtained from your local parts supplier. It fits snugly into the radiator opening for an easy fill and is reusable.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such items which may be available from other sources.
Important: Verify the fuel level in the fuel tank. The fuel level should be above ¼ tank before this procedure is started.
As a precaution, verify the oil level in the crankcase. Add the amount required to bring the oil level into the normal range.
It is recommended the vehicle be placed in a position so that the following are available:
• A sanitary sewer -- not a storm drain, etc
• A monoxivent system (if the outside temperature is less than 10°C (50°F)).
• Hot running water
Notice: Due to the complexity of these procedures, the following repair steps must be strictly adhered to in order to achieve the intended results. Any deviation or substitution may result in sub-standard cleaning/flushing results or system damage.
Diagnostic Procedure
Install the Scan Tool. This will allow monitoring of the coolant temperature throughout the procedure.
Caution: As long as there is pressure in the cooling system, the temperature can be considerably higher than the boiling temperature of the solution in the radiator without causing the solution to boil. Removal of the radiator cap while the engine is hot and pressure is high will cause the solution to boil instantaneously - possibly with explosive force - spewing the solution over the engine, fenders and the person removing the cap. Under some conditions, the engine coolant is combustible.
Important: • The installation of a NEW radiator cap at the beginning of this procedure and the second new cap at the end of the repair procedure is necessary in order for the correct pressure to be achieved and for the repair to be completed successfully.
• The radiator cap is NOT a good indicator of the general condition of the cooling system. Typically the underside of the radiator cap will exhibit a greater amount of contamination than the rest of the system. It is important to evaluate the condition of the cooling system by checking the following before beginning the repair procedure:
Remove the radiator cap. Install a new radiator cap, GM P/N 15075565. A properly operating radiator cap is essential for this procedure to work properly. Be sure to wipe off all radiator cap sealing surfaces prior to installation.
Start the engine.
Using a flashlight or lead light, look into the radiator. From the right side of the vehicle, peer into the radiator toward the left side of the vehicle. Observe the top three rows (or tubes) of the radiator. (It may be necessary to drain off some of the coolant to see the top three rows of the radiator).
If it appears the coolant is able to flow through the third row down from the top, the vehicle should be repaired using Procedure A. If it appears the coolant is NOT able to flow through the third row down from the top, then the vehicle should be repaired using Procedure B.
Stop the engine.
Repair Procedure A & B
Important: • If available, use coolant exchanger Pro-Fill 42-75100-KM, Power Flush 211-07601/DEX (available through the GM Dealer Equipment program), or equivalent to evacuate the system of coolant. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for exchanging used coolant with new coolant. However, for this procedure, use water in place of new coolant. Be sure to exchange 1½ times the cooling system capacity of the vehicle with water. This will ensure that only water remains within the cooling system. Once the coolant has been displaced with water, drain the water from the radiator.
• If you are located within an area which regulates the disposal of used coolant (check with your local water treatment facility), all coolant and coolant/water mixture must be captured until the water runs clear of coolant. Use a clean 208 L (55 gal) drum or similar to contain the waste coolant. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-02-006 for information on coolant recycling and removal services.
Drain and properly dispose of the coolant.
Caution: Any obstructions in the hoses to or from the coolant recovery bottle may cause over-pressurization of the cooling system. This over-pressurization could result in serious personal injury.
Inspect the following hoses in order to assure there are no obstructions and the coolant is able to flow freely: • The hose to the coolant recovery bottle.
• The relief hose from the coolant recovery bottle.
Disconnect both coolant hoses to the heater core from the engine.
Back flush the heater core for 5 minutes after clear water is present. Pressurized water not to exceed 345 Kpa (50 psi), may be used.
Reinstall the heater return hose to the engine.
Install the radiator cap and properly tighten.
Install the "T" from the flush and fill kit to a 25.4 cm (10 in) piece of 19 mm (¾ in) heater hose. Tighten the clamp.
Install the hose to the engine. Tighten the clamp.
Install the other end of the "T" in the heater core inlet hose. Tighten the clamp.
Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the radiator. Properly position the hose, so the accessory drive belt or any pulley/belt cannot touch the hose.
If you used coolant exchange equipment, disconnect it.
Attach a garden hose to the "T" of the flush and fill kit. Turn on the water and back flush the cooling system for at least two minutes after the water runs clear.
Start the engine and continue back flushing the cooling system for five additional minutes.
Turn the engine "OFF".
Turn the water "OFF".
Re-attach the upper radiator hose to the radiator.
Open the radiator drain and drain all water from the radiator.
Remove the lower left water pump crossover bolt. This allows lowering the water level in the left side of the engine.
After the water stops running from the water pump bolt hole, reinstall the bolt.
Close the radiator drain.
Mix the Prestone® Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner, GM P/N 12346500, in approximately 3 L (3 qt) of warm water. Pour the mixture into the radiator. Top off the system with plain water and reinstall the radiator cap.
Run the engine at 1600 to 1800 RPM with the air conditioning in the maximum cool position.
To achieve the 1600 to 1800 RPM, place a dime between the closed throttle stop and the screw. This screw should never be adjusted, under any circumstance. Its only purpose is to keep the throttle plate from sticking in the bore when the throttle is slammed shut. It is not a minimum idle (RPM) control adjustment screw.
Important: It is imperative that all air pockets have been removed from the cooling system in order for the cleaning procedure to be effective.
Service Procedure A
For Service Procedure A, the cleaner should be left in the system for three hours (after normal operating temperature of the cooling system has been achieved). Normal operating temperature is when the coolant temperature stabilizes around 98°C (200°F). The best results are obtained when the coolant temperature is between 98°C (200°F) and 110°C (230°F). DO NOT EXCEED 113°C (235°F). Use the Scan Tool to determine when this point has been reached. When this temperature has been reached, start the clock. Periodically (every twenty minutes or so), monitor the coolant temperature and engine during the three hour run time. A half hour has been built into the actual labor time to cover for the time spent monitoring the engine, etc.
In order to achieve a constant temperature of 98°C (200°F) to 110°C (230°F) during this procedure, maintain the idle speed, turn on the A/C or partially close the hood.
Service Procedure B
For Service Procedure B, the cleaner should be left in the system for two and a half hours (after normal operating temperature of the cooling system has been achieved). Normal operating temperature is when the coolant temperature stabilizes around 98°C (200°F). The best results are obtained when the coolant temperature is between 98°C (200°F) and 110°C (230°F). DO NOT EXCEED 113°C (235°F). Use the Scan Tool to determine when this point has been reached. When this temperature has been reached, start the clock. Periodically (every twenty minutes or so), monitor the coolant temperature and engine during the two and a half hour run time. A half hour has been built into the actual labor time to cover for the time spent monitoring the engine, etc.
In order to achieve a constant temperature of 98°C (200°F) to 110°C (230°F) during this procedure, maintain the idle speed, turn on the A/C or partially close the hood.
Important: The vehicle should not be left idling outdoors when the ambient temperature is below 10°C (50°F). The flushing procedure relies on heat as a catalyst in order to be effective. Ambient temperatures below 10°C (50°F) do not allow sufficient cycling of the thermostat to effectively clean the cooling system.
Turn off the engine.
Remove the dime from the closed throttle stop screw. Do NOT remove the radiator cap. Following the procedure listed below will assist you in draining the cooling system thoroughly. • Place a drain pan under the radiator drain hose.
Caution: The cooling system and coolant are hot and under pressure. Loosen only the radiator drain until the pressure has been released from the cooling system and follow the procedures exactly in this bulletin, using normal safety precautions to avoid being injured by the hot coolant mixture.
• Loosen the radiator drain. Drain approximately 1 L (1 qt) of liquid from the system.
• After the pressure has been released from the cooling system, slowly loosen the radiator cap to the safety stop. Do not remove the cap (This releases the spring pressure on the secondary seal while retaining the primary seal to the top of the filler neck and will allow the coolant reservoir to be evacuated).
• When the coolant reservoir is empty, re-tighten the radiator cap fully.
• Remove the cap from the flush and fill "T". This will allow the coolant to be siphoned from the heater core and the engine block.
• When the water has stopped coming out of the radiator drain hose, close the radiator drain. Do not place the cap on the "T".
Using Prestone® Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner, GM P/N 12346500, mix the neutralizer (from the bottom of the can) with approximately 3 L (3 qt) of warm (shower temperature) water.
Notice: Do not put cold water into a hot engine as engine damage may occur.
06-05-2018, 09:53 PM
