Nice job, Redshift. And the result looks really nice.

I did half my floor (the motor head side) almost 3 years ago. I used a concrete stain with a industrial grade poly satin sealer (a friend with the required license purchased it for me). It's held up very well and makes spilled oil/fluids a snap to wipe up. I also spent about 5 days for the total application including the power wash, acid etch, power wash, adhesion promoter, the stain application and clear coat. I didn't drive on it for another 2 weeks

The key to ANY floor coating is the prep. I did much as you did, however, I also had to use a strong cleaner on previous oil spill spots, before the first power wash.. Every thing seemed to work well, again, because of no chips, stains or peeling. Will probably do the other side, which is the "woodworking/handyman" side this spring.

Curious, I also have a lift. Which one did you select? AND you will never regret owning one.....even for an occasional vehicle job.

Oh one thing I should mention......Mine is somewhat slippery when oil is spilled or when wet. I wash mine frequently with a hose and "squeegy" the water out the overhead.

 

I'm going with a Challenger VS-10 due to it's multiple certifications and beefy construction. I want to feel good about letting my little girl walk around under a car that's up on the lift without worrying. Plus, it helps to have a quality lift professionally installed for insurance reasons. I am going to order this week and hope to have it installed and operational ASAP. I have work to do on multiple cars and am waiting for it!

 

I've used a few of these epoxies and I'm done with them. They simply don't last. Hot tire pick up, salt destroys them, etc. My garage is currently a chipped version of above, otherwise I would probably consider stain instead. But I will probably go with a rubber flooring. That way if you move you can take it with you. If you destroy a tile you can simply replace it. Only negative is that it get's expensive.

 

Rubber is too easily damaged by weight on jackstands etc.. & Headache to roll bikes around on lifts & etc.. Just not for me. Although I do have anti-fague mats in front of my work benches & various areas..

I'm hard on a floor. LOL When we bought the New place the floor was sealed. And that is slowly wearing away in the 'action areas' ..

 

Ipicked up a Great Garage Makeovers nagazine ( from editors of WOOD magazine) and they go over many different types of garage flooring...including tiles! Very informative..a few examples included decorative floors that have a few years on them with no problems..
also cover lighting and clutter...

 

I'm sure there are downfalls as well. But I'm sure with the proper amount of $$$$ those get negated.

 

Red,

At least from the pictures your floor looks fine, I’m always the pickiest of all those who view my work too.

Do have one question about your garage though. Why are the electrical, plumbing and some pipes coming up out of the slab floor and not through the stem walls? They seem to be looking for trouble with things hitting them in the future and a waste of space to boot. Is there something in your local building codes or environment that requires this? Or was it a lack of forethought from the builder to get them into the stem walls?

Like those golf shoes!

 

The slab is suspended, meaning there is a full open basement underneath. It's supported by 3 steel beams, 3 steel columns, an 18 gauge sheet of steel decking, and a huge rebar network at 12" OC. The concrete is 7" thick at the entry apron and 9" thick at the rear, one giant solid slab. 5000 psi concrete and NO expansion joints. The four supporting walls are solid 10-12" thick concrete, so there wasn't a way to send pipes and wires up through them. I will be covering them over with cabinets at some point to prevent damage and hide them from view.

Those are lawn aeration shoes :)

Some pics:

 

Thanks for supplying the pictures, that is how I see many floors built in commercial buildings.

One more question: Is the lift going to be supported over some of the I-Beams?

 

Not directly on top, but within probably 3-4 feet. I'm laying out the columns for the lift tonight so I can run the wiring and get set up for the installer.