Back in my wrench turning for a living days I was a big Interstate battery fan. The last 20+ years though it's been mostly Walmart batteries I've bought.
Had good luck with them. Never had one that didn't last at least 5 years. I even had one in my Kubota tractor that lasted 13 years or so !
(OK. Those small batteries for my riding mower were only good for about 2 years but they were only $19.99 for the longest time)

I recently replaced the 10 year old original battery in my SS. Yep, Walmart brand.

 

This is great to hear! Yes, I have a nice Extended Duty Interstate I installed into my Saturn, and my dad swore by them. He was a mechanic reseller for them as well.
I will keep this one checked every 4-6 months or at oil changes too.
The 5 year free replacement warranty included and the raving reviews on various sites were too compelling to try it, and even my neighbor raves about them in his bang-around Jeep Wrangler. He’s got an 11 year old Walmart battery and still starts up every morning for him.

 

Someone in tire testing once told me to never buy an OEM tire for replacement because the OEM rejects go to the tire dealers. I don’t doubt there’s at least a grain of truth in it.

 

Finally had a chance to check this bolt, and I found that oval shaped hole in the wheel well you were speaking of. The bolt looks to be a gold zinc color, and it's lined up in the middle of that hole, so I am guessing that it's okay. However, I would bet that the tie rods and bushings and/or bottom mounts could be replaced since I hear that "clunk" sound (on the passenger side only) when I first back up out of park, or I go over potholes. Do you think it would behoove me to get the kit, or does this top mount last a lot longer than the rest? I just don't want to get into replacing things that aren't needing replaced, especially since I've discovered every single part on this car is still OEM. My dad always said "If it ain't broke, don't fix it".

 

That clunk could be LCA’s rear bushings, sway bar bushings , swaybar end links , loose bolts . You’re gonna have to hands on inspect them .

Sounds to me , LCA’s need replaced first , this will eliminate the rear bushings and the ball joints , if their still OEM they are first suspect

 

I have same noise(s) you describe and add a whining wheel bearing. I raised and checked many times and minimal looseness in the wheel bearing. The LCA's are aluminum on mine. I am considering replacing the lca components (bushings / ball joint) as I have access to a press and can take a day or two as needed to complete it.

 

If you are replacing the ball joints and rear LCA bushings then , yes go with Moog K201285 bushings and Moog K80567 ball joints, but only for the FE1 and FE3 suspensions , the rear bushings can be used in the FE5 LCA’s, but definitely not the ball joints as the stub is a smaller diameter, which causes problems in the FE5 steering knuckle.