Oil Analysis
#22
No I'm using cheap syn
Thanks for asking,
Redline is made from an ester base, it's the most expensive oil because it cost lots to make. I have used Redline in my Vettes but not regular cars. If you have a severe condition or race etc. this is the best stuff to use. Used, it has a better TBN than some new oils but at $9 per quart it costs lots. Jet turbine motors use ester based oil as do A/C compressors with R134A in them, it stands up to tough conditions.
Everyone else's synthetic oil is a variation off of a dino based oil far as I can tell.....that isn't quite the same as making oil from alcohol molecules like the WWII Germans and Redline teaches us how to do.
It depends on what you need and want to spend........Mobil One is good but some basic dino oils are too like Havoline or Ford syn blend Motorcraft oil.
I'm only offended when someone tells me oil is all the same and they run it to the limit......without a test when you do that, what is the oil like?
I'm just like everyone else, I have a butt and an opinion!
QuickRick
Redline is made from an ester base, it's the most expensive oil because it cost lots to make. I have used Redline in my Vettes but not regular cars. If you have a severe condition or race etc. this is the best stuff to use. Used, it has a better TBN than some new oils but at $9 per quart it costs lots. Jet turbine motors use ester based oil as do A/C compressors with R134A in them, it stands up to tough conditions.
Everyone else's synthetic oil is a variation off of a dino based oil far as I can tell.....that isn't quite the same as making oil from alcohol molecules like the WWII Germans and Redline teaches us how to do.
It depends on what you need and want to spend........Mobil One is good but some basic dino oils are too like Havoline or Ford syn blend Motorcraft oil.
I'm only offended when someone tells me oil is all the same and they run it to the limit......without a test when you do that, what is the oil like?
I'm just like everyone else, I have a butt and an opinion!
QuickRick
#23
Well i didnt really find a thread for this so i will start new
Ran my Amsoil 5W30 down to 5 % and right at 10,000 miles
Well it flunked the TBN test and the oxidation was critical high as well as nitration and i felt the nitrate level was a little high which will cause high viscosity.
Did i wear out the additive package ?
Should i step back to 5,000 mile oil changes ?
Change oil brands ?
Ran my Amsoil 5W30 down to 5 % and right at 10,000 miles
Well it flunked the TBN test and the oxidation was critical high as well as nitration and i felt the nitrate level was a little high which will cause high viscosity.
Did i wear out the additive package ?
Should i step back to 5,000 mile oil changes ?
Change oil brands ?
Where is the oil sample taken from? The location is of the most importance. We sample tested oils on site in what was called extrapolation studies in our Experimental Engineering Quality Assurance Chemicals Lab at GM Oshawa. The oil was drawn from a fitting/valve installed into the oil pressure line at the sender or sensor to the oil pressure gauge or light. We were using data to establish oil change intervals to be written into the maintenance schedule relative to all types of driving.
#24
oil change
Rocket,
I think you are on the right track........now that you tested your oil you know exactly where you stand.
I'd use the same oil and just change it at less than 100% say 75% and retest or else just go to a 5-6,000 mile change interval.
I think Amsoil is a quality oil but wow, 10,000 miles is a lot of time on that oil.
Minder or not it makes me nervous.
QuickRick
I think you are on the right track........now that you tested your oil you know exactly where you stand.
I'd use the same oil and just change it at less than 100% say 75% and retest or else just go to a 5-6,000 mile change interval.
I think Amsoil is a quality oil but wow, 10,000 miles is a lot of time on that oil.
Minder or not it makes me nervous.
QuickRick
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