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Oil Loss ?

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Old 01-23-2021, 07:08 AM
  #11  
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Good no leaks or oil loss there, now check the oil sender just above the starter, is it leaking oil?

Last edited by Oldblue; 01-23-2021 at 11:09 AM.
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Old 01-23-2021, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Oldblue
Good no leaks or oil loss there, now check the oil sender just above the starter, is it leaking oil?
entire engine is dry top to bottom front to back, not a drop anywhere, no oild spots where I park.... nothing. Just baffles me, unless its burning some due to the cold Ive no clue since its stayed full all summer and fall til the next oil changes, doesnt smoke on start up either even after sitting a few days, Ive asked people to watch to see if it smoked on start up and while driving as well...nada. To me it just seemed like a big loss in the oil level in a short time where I am just now due for the next change. No leaks on the filter cap or valve cover not even the pan.

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Old 01-23-2021, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by geg
a couple of years ago I took the habit of buying oil in large volumes - it is cheaper per liter, something like a wholesale.
And so, I bought a 20 liter canister "Wolf oil" (Belgium, they pour from one barrel into GM canisters and their own brand).
The first canister was great, not a single ounce of oil disappeared.
The second canister was exactly the same, bought 2 years later from the same seller. But! .. The look / color of the oil is slightly different. And it burns out! about 300 grams per 1000 km.
Replaced with Kixx oil (Korea) - no losses. Although Korean oil is cheaper than European one.
I don’t know the reason ... Either the factory began to lower the quality, or a wholesaler in St. Petersburg learned to counterfeit oil.
Ive heard of oil being diluted in off brands to "formulate" their own... But also heard it all comes from the same place with different labels on it , same with Gas. one fact is some foods, they over produce and just bag it as another off brand for discount stores that sell a $10 product for next to nothing ... sometimes you get a great product cheaper if you know where to look but again you can also get fooled.. I know people who buy motor oil from the Dollar store and end up locking up their engines.....
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Old 01-23-2021, 04:23 PM
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Only a few places the oil can go. A leak, sometimes only while running. Bypassing rings or valve guides, or via a leaking head gasket, or via the pcv, into the combustion chamber and out the tailpipe, burned or not. Via a leaking head gasket (or other gasket, depending on engine design - "wet" manifolds in particular - or casting perforation,) into the coolant. Am I missing any?
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Old 01-23-2021, 07:05 PM
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Another place , I’ve experienced oil leaks is the harmonic balancer crankshaft seal, the oil slings out at higher RPM and usually doesn’t really leave a trace like drips, the oil gets blown back and down to the roadway.

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/gene...-advice-61278/
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Old 01-23-2021, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Oldblue
Another place , I’ve experienced oil leaks is the harmonic balancer crankshaft seal, the oil slings out at higher RPM and usually doesn’t really leave a trace like drips, the oil gets blown back and down to the roadway.

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/gene...-advice-61278/
but that would film the block and wet the underside, mine is dry as a bone.
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Old 01-23-2021, 10:25 PM
  #17  
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My 2007 2.2 was dry also. Have a look up behind the harmonic balancer, just to be sure.
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Old 01-24-2021, 05:10 AM
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If you have positively ruled out a leak or it burning oil, then consider these.
(1) Unlikely. But maybe you made a mistake when checking the oil level ? Didn't get the dipstick all the way in ? Air bubble on the dipstick that gave you a false reading ? Didn't allow the engine to sit and cool down before checking oil level ?
Have you rechecked the level after adding 2 qts. ? Not overfilled now is it ?
(2) Was under filled with that last oil change. You said you rechecked the level after that change but are you 100 % sure you did ?
(3) Long shot here but oil could be trapped on top of the cylinder head in the valvetrain area and not returning to the pan. Drain back passages clogged ?
Back in the early 80's I was a full time mechanic. Used to see a bunch of V8's with clogged oil drain back passages on the cylinder heads. It was usually the result of sludged up or crusty oil deposits. Most of those were the result of the engine having been run hot before.

I would suggest an oil change. Then just keep a close check on the level.
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Old 01-24-2021, 08:25 AM
  #19  
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It does take about 5-10 minutes for all of the oil to get back down in the sump after shutdown.
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Old 01-24-2021, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by firemangeorge
If you have positively ruled out a leak or it burning oil, then consider these.
(1) Unlikely. But maybe you made a mistake when checking the oil level ? Didn't get the dipstick all the way in ? Air bubble on the dipstick that gave you a false reading ? Didn't allow the engine to sit and cool down before checking oil level ?
Have you rechecked the level after adding 2 qts. ? Not overfilled now is it ?
(2) Was under filled with that last oil change. You said you rechecked the level after that change but are you 100 % sure you did ?
(3) Long shot here but oil could be trapped on top of the cylinder head in the valvetrain area and not returning to the pan. Drain back passages clogged ?
Back in the early 80's I was a full time mechanic. Used to see a bunch of V8's with clogged oil drain back passages on the cylinder heads. It was usually the result of sludged up or crusty oil deposits. Most of those were the result of the engine having been run hot before.

I would suggest an oil change. Then just keep a close check on the level.
Nope. I wipe the bulb off dry, dip all the way in and lay the bulb on a paper towel as well to see the new oil better as well...
what concerned me is it was so low this last time.
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