over 60 mph shake
#12
Excessive wear on the outside is likely caused by too much toe-in, and if it’s bad it’ll give you the shimmy-shakes, too, even if everything else is perfect.
Did you hit something hard? When’s the last time anyone did anything to the front suspension? How many miles on the cars? What kind of tires, age, miles?
Did you hit something hard? When’s the last time anyone did anything to the front suspension? How many miles on the cars? What kind of tires, age, miles?
#13
Try to confirm or exclude hubs from suspects. It is easy.
if the hub is worn - this is audible.
I have changed hubs on my cars many times.
And so, I will tell:
If you hear a howl like a trolleybus (hey guys! Do you have trolleybuses in the USA?) Or a rumbling sound like from a light-engine plane - you suspect the hub’s premature death.
To make sure of this, you begin to load and unload hubs in turn. That is, the conversion from line to line and listen (turn off the music! Interferes!). If, when turning to the side, the suspicious sound amplifies, and when turning in the opposite direction, the suspicious sound disappears - your hub is on the way to the trash.
Now you need to determine which hub is dying. The sound is amplified in the right turn and disappears when turning to the left - the left hub dies. The sound is amplified when turning left and disappears in the right turn - the right hub dies. Of course, both hubs can die at the same time, but this is unlikely, I have not encountered this.
Control test. Lift the car to the car lift. With one hand, grab the suspension spring, with the other hand, rotate the wheel. No need to spin fast, do it lightly and thoughtfully. That hand, which rests on the spring, will feel light but distinct shudders. This ball from the bearing crosses bumps in its path. If you feel it, the last doubts have disappeared. Replacing the hub.
if the hub is worn - this is audible.
I have changed hubs on my cars many times.
And so, I will tell:
If you hear a howl like a trolleybus (hey guys! Do you have trolleybuses in the USA?) Or a rumbling sound like from a light-engine plane - you suspect the hub’s premature death.
To make sure of this, you begin to load and unload hubs in turn. That is, the conversion from line to line and listen (turn off the music! Interferes!). If, when turning to the side, the suspicious sound amplifies, and when turning in the opposite direction, the suspicious sound disappears - your hub is on the way to the trash.
Now you need to determine which hub is dying. The sound is amplified in the right turn and disappears when turning to the left - the left hub dies. The sound is amplified when turning left and disappears in the right turn - the right hub dies. Of course, both hubs can die at the same time, but this is unlikely, I have not encountered this.
Control test. Lift the car to the car lift. With one hand, grab the suspension spring, with the other hand, rotate the wheel. No need to spin fast, do it lightly and thoughtfully. That hand, which rests on the spring, will feel light but distinct shudders. This ball from the bearing crosses bumps in its path. If you feel it, the last doubts have disappeared. Replacing the hub.
This Gal badly needs Rr suspension and Hubs for sure. Has a rusted on hitch & ball, and prior life she pulled a trailer full of water dock material. She's pretty loose so probably needing a full work-over in both Ft & Rr.... but the Hubs are the most destrubing grinding howl! I had considered that he backed it into the water but the chassis is in great condition overall.
#15
Apparently they can here are just a few things to keep in mind:
- First and foremost, listen! The most common and most easily identifiable symptom of a bad wheel bearing is an audible one. If you notice a grinding or grating noise coming from your wheel or tire, take note that this is very likely caused by a bad wheel bearing—especially if the noise gets louder as the vehicle accelerates.
- Another revealing sign of bad wheel bearings: A car that feels loose as you drive it. Looseness can be difficult to convey, but basically, it refers to steering your car and finding that it seems less responsive or less precise than usual. Loose steering is not always due to a problem with the wheel bearings, but it very often can be. Sometimes the wheel bearings can become worn down, which causes them to loosen within your wheel assembly.
- A related phenomenon is pulling. When you drive, does the car go where you tell it to or does it seem like it has a mind of its own, veering in a particular direction? Again, this is not always because of a problem with the wheel bearing, but that can certainly be a culprit.
- Finally, pay attention to your tires. Rotating your tires regularly can help prevent wear—but if you find that you have extremely uneven wear, you may want to have the wheel bearings looked at.
#16
All conditions can exist... some very common, some uncommon. Some situations, can display no uneven tire wear, no unusual Ft end looseness but produce noise & howl with bad bearings or races... pitting or spalling that maintain acceptable tightness in bearing for sometime. Overtight bearing results can be similar with excessive tow weight.
My situation, I think is more related to towing beyound it's limits (Prev Owner). No uneven Ft tire wear, steering feels relatively tight and tracks nicely. Looseness through Rr is different than Ft end delayed response... Rr is more chassis drift or wander with road roughnes. My Ft Bearings wear is more likely due to pulling weight down highways... possibly with Ft inclined upward due to hitch weight.
My situation, I think is more related to towing beyound it's limits (Prev Owner). No uneven Ft tire wear, steering feels relatively tight and tracks nicely. Looseness through Rr is different than Ft end delayed response... Rr is more chassis drift or wander with road roughnes. My Ft Bearings wear is more likely due to pulling weight down highways... possibly with Ft inclined upward due to hitch weight.
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