PANEL: rear power outlet same as the power plug?
#21
Hello,
I know Delphi makes almost all the electric connectors for GM.
Here is thier web site search link for connectors/wires/terminals/gender
You should find it there.
http://connectors.delphi.com/DCSGDMC...ureSearch.aspx
I dont know what type female connector it is.I think its a Metri-Pack 630 type. The male is AC Delco PT646
Like here:
http://connectors.delphi.com/DCSGDMC...rtNum=12015664
I too want to get my plug working.
Cheers!
Craig~
I know Delphi makes almost all the electric connectors for GM.
Here is thier web site search link for connectors/wires/terminals/gender
You should find it there.
http://connectors.delphi.com/DCSGDMC...ureSearch.aspx
I dont know what type female connector it is.I think its a Metri-Pack 630 type. The male is AC Delco PT646
Like here:
http://connectors.delphi.com/DCSGDMC...rtNum=12015664
I too want to get my plug working.
Cheers!
Craig~
#22
beginning to install inverter (long post)
I've started to install my Schumacher inverter (410 watt) by using the power pigtail (with add-on connectors). Despite the search for a direct plug & play, I'm using standard wiring connectors and 10 gauge wire. The inverter directions said to use 6 gauge, but the factory 40 amp wire is not that stout. The connector that Pretzel located in Delphi doesn't match... it shows to be a Corvette brake system part. So, I've decided to go old school. Referring to the photo in post#6 > from the left, the factory plug has four wires: the first (blue) is hot in ACC/On and On/Run, the next wire (black) is ground, the third (pink?) is hot in On/Run, and the last is the 40 amp feed (always hot). The 40 amp feed is fused in the underhood fusebox, #7, on panels only. Since it is a directly wired and fused component from the factory, I see no need to install another fuse or relay inline. And, since my inverter will only be less than two feet from the factory plug, I think the wiring will hold. Plus, the wiring run will be outside the plastic fenderwall, hidden beside my fullsize spre mount, so I can easily check for overheating or for a quick disconnect. Schumacher recommends that for longer wiring needs, the AC output should be the longer wires. So I will carry a GFCI 12 gauge extension cord for heavier loads. I really don't need to pull 40 amps DC/400 watts AC from this Panel set-up. For that, I can take my '04 HD with a 3500 or 6500 watt generator in the bed or trailered. Can anyone comment whether this plan is sound or not?
#23
The only reason I would put a relay in is to insure that the inverter only runs when the engine is running, since it will be mounted in the rear making the on/off switch inconvenient. Also, my math is suspect, but are you going to get 40 amps AC from 40 amps DC? I was thinking more like 15 amps AC, like I said my electronics math is suspect, asking for curiosity not argument.
#24
I am not looking for more than 15 amps AC from this inverter, if that many, perhaps to power a laptop, or a window fan and light for tailgating at night, or a 3/8" drill. At most, my 1/2" electric impact. Also, my inverter must be manually switched on/off. I can see, and reach, the face of it from my driver's seat, so I can easily check to see if it's off. I forgot to mention that I haven't hooked up the blue or pink switched wires yet. I might power my back-up camera from the pink one, and maybe a rear facing under-bumper floodlight from the blue one. Haven't decided yet.
#25
Thanks much for the posts! I only need to run a small compressor to blow out dusty computers when I'm servicing them. I kind of want to have a 110 outlet on the rear panel like the guy in the other thread has. I think I'll run the inverter to the "acc/on" line and install a push button on/off switch in the panel above the outlet.
Let us know how yours comes out, especially if you run into any snags!
Thanks again!
Let us know how yours comes out, especially if you run into any snags!
Thanks again!
#26
To be able to run it through the switched wire, don't get a digital inverter like my Schumacher X141DU, on which the power up button must be pressed for a second, every time, to reset on/off. I've got an analog Vector inverter in my '04 HD that has a manual switch that I can leave in the "ON" position. I may switch them out and run a relay to the 40 amp wire, if manually reaching over to my right rear fenderwell cover (where the inverter is mounted) becomes a hassle. The acc/on (blue) wire is of an insufficient gauge for even a drill or mini-compressor IMO.
#27
What threw me was 410 watts seemed kind of overkill for a laptop. But then I looked at mine, it is a Vector 400 watt 2 outlet model (from PepBoys I think). The cigarette lighter variety will burn out in very short order from the load of my laptop. Mine takes 2-3 hours to kill the battery with just the laptop running. It has lasted 3 years now. You do need to wire to the 40 amp, or directly to the battery with your own fuse, the acc will not work for anything larger than an iPod, tried it.
Kind of odd that they ran a wire all the back to the battery compartment with the intention of 40 amps going thru it, instead of just a direct connection. There is already the main bus fuse right there, could have just added another fuse holder.
Kind of odd that they ran a wire all the back to the battery compartment with the intention of 40 amps going thru it, instead of just a direct connection. There is already the main bus fuse right there, could have just added another fuse holder.
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