Better check the entire charging system. Could be something that drained and/or killed the battery.
I wouldn't put much faith in the battery being the only problem.

Ok. Sitting down to eat dinner. So I'll take a min to update.. just walk out of advance. Battery tested at walk in at 225cca of it 650cca. After being put on charge for 30 mins it at FULL charge and holding..

they won't warranty battery unless I go home and blow it up he said...

so moving on. Will trace ground on bottom thart yal mentioned and will have alternated tested.

I would get my batteries from someone who understands customer service better. My guys would swap that out in a second.

Also, hooking the car up for a full electrical test will look at the alternator/regulator/etc. as well as the battery.
Like George said above, it is unlikely the battery just committed suicide, if they are not old, they usually have "help" in failing.

Yea I liked the old manager better at Advance Auto in Findlay, he was a very nice gentleman. They replaced him with a young 20 something, who is very very ****y and "knows more then you".

Im gonna pull the alternator and have it tested when we go back in town today. Then with a full charge and tested alternator, Ill start to searching for parasitic drain.

It must be rabbit season, yes bench test the alternator and as for the battery, it probably has a dead cell with no oomph to power the starter. Those low numbers y’all posted indicated a dead battery, and trickle charging it won’t help , it’s toast.
I had that happen to two batteries in the 9 years I’ve had Oldblue, both times I was convinced it was the alternator or the starter, but ahh it was the battery! dead in its holder tray, sad really just 4 years old and then 5 years old.

Is there a fuseable link on the alternator wire up by the alternator?

my alternator wire is red them a 3in section of heat shrink them orange. I know ford loves fuseable links so didn't know if alternator on here had one as well.

Check continuity in that wire

You might be right. I found this in a forum:
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdv...idle_with_new/

And the person did show a picture of what your describing:
https://imgur.com/4CCkeQd

As Blue said check continuity. Usually though when a fusible link burns you can see it.

Not sure if it's a fusible link but you could look at the connector (S111) between the starter and alternator.
Or, simply check to see if there is voltage at the alternator since it should be hot at all times.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...5068484103.png

OK so here we gooo....

More from today..... So the battery ground wire (one connected to the battery) is now a 0 ga wire and new battery terminal for the negative. also that spot has been very cleaned with wire brush. went over the fuses before just to check that they had power.. this time, checked each post and fuse with multi-meter reader to see what we were getting on each.. They all checked out ok.

So took the NEW High Output Alternator with me into Advance (when i had the battery tested i had them test the stock alternator) and have them check it. We got a pass/fail. It works and charges, but it is only putting out 10volts or less, not even distributing 12volts. So I bought the only alternator they had.... reman carquest.

but hey i know every fuse is good (but relays) we didnt check relays :-(. Battery tested good a 2nd time now. I did find that the wire connector for the knock sensor is/was busted and just shoved on.. so ill need to solder in a new pigtail. so looks like im finally down to just installing this alternator tomorrow... yay

however in the adventure of checking all fuses, found out that the radio that was installed 4 years ago a couple days before the motor blew... radio no longer works. thank god i bought extended warranty on radio, but they wont warranty the HO alternator..

TY firemanorange, i was gonna look for that when i got home, thank you!

thank you everyone else for the help so far to