Well, not necessarily --, the real tell tale is doing the TPM reset procedure. But the door locks should still work. The alarm should only go off if you lock with the fob and unlock with the key.

Are you positive this is a 2008 model year car; I know some countries list the year as the year they are first registered. This sounds more like the 2007 thing. The tenth digit of the VIN is the year.

As far as programming a new remote anybody with a CAN-bus computer can do that, or a Dorman module, or a well equipped locksmith. Reprogramming the RCDLR will require a fairly sophisticated technician

 

With the probable exception of the SS, that change happened for the 2009 model year. 2008 could also arm the alarm system with the power lock button on the door.

 

Let’s wait and see if the correct battery cures the problem

 

I still haven't got the battery but Ive been reading and I just found out the car is a 2006 hhr from the vịn.
Is there a way to program the fobs I saw sth about holding the unlock while turning the key on and off 3 times. It didn't work or I did it wrong. Then I saw another person who said hold down the reset button for 30sec when in the dic is displaying "Language:English" and that you're gonna hear locks and unlocks and three chirps, and that's when you'll hold down the unlock and lock button on the remote until the car unlocks and locks.
Do any of these methods work?

 

Why don't people believe us? Here in all caps for the millionth time THE ONLY WAY TO PROGRAM A FOB IS WITH A COMPUTER INTERFACE TOOL.

Owner Manual is available via the link in my sig.

The 2006 thing I meant was the weird way you have to lock to avoid the alarm. Something like push the button on the door then pull the plunger up then push the plunger down and close the door; I don't remember the exact sequence.

 

You seem unable(or unwilling) to take the advice given. Stop wasting your time and ours with these crackpot ideas that you find on YouTube or wherever.

Since you don't know if the fobs have ever worked. Take the pictures as requested, so we can know if you have the correct fobs. If they turn out to be correct, get the correct batteries.

 

 

The fob with the key attached is not an OEM fob, it may work, it may not.

The other appears to be correct, but the last 2 digits of the part number are not readable. The battery part number is there on the back of this one also. Get your 2032 battery and try this fob. If it works, great.

If it doesn't, you'll have to reprogram the vehicle to accept this fob. Donbrew has provided the only ways to do this.

If the other fob doesn't work(not sure which battery this one needs), you can try reprogramming for it also. If it costs extra, I wouldn't. The Dorman module donbrew mentioned works for 3 sessions, I think, so it wouldn't cost more to try.

Beware, sometimes people will use these 3 sessions, then return it for a refund. Then you get a module that doesn't work at all.

There are threads here about the Dorman product. It worked perfectly for me on a GM fob. Less than perfect with aftermarket fob.

 

Alright,, thank you

 

Isn't that an old key?Shouldn't the hole be round if the ignition recall was done?