Bonez

Ok, I replaced both lower control arms (MOOG) and steering is tight as it should be... I still get the shimmy/rattle noise when braking. The other day sitting at the light I just so happen to rock the steering wheel back and forth ever so slightly and get the bump...bump.. noise so my conclusion is that the rattling is coming from the steering shaft apparently. Is this a common issue? what do I need to look for and where? is it something that can be tightened or replaced ? Thanks for any info.

donbrew

Common, yes. the intermediates shaft that allows the shaft to turn down to the rack. wears out. It is the universal joint

Oldblue

Have your assistant turn the steering wheel back and forth , while you look under the hood at the shaft down under the brake master cylinder.

Bonez

Ok, Thanks. I am heading to the shop tomorrow to have the front brakes done, also going to look at the tie rod ends as well just in case. Is this universal joint replaceable? I know some cars they arent or have to go through extremes to replace ( grinding rivits...ect... ) hopefully something simple to do at home. Id do the brakes myself as I have a spare set of pads, just that the rotors need turned this go.

Oldblue

Rotors are usually replaced, 4 extra bolts .
the intermediate steering shaft is fairly easy , the ujoints aren’t serviceable, you replace the shaft assembly.

donbrew

Not wise to turn rotors. I bet you don't even save any money. They are only good for one cut at best, if they are bad enough to require it they don't have enough meat left.

Oldblue

I suggest you upgrade to SS non Brembo rotors and calliper brackets

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/brak...ard-hhr-42938/

PulpFriction

Some truth there, but only the cheapest rotors can match the cost cost of a reasonably priced turning job. And they’ll likely immediately warp. If it’s about saving money, the oem rotors are usually better than the cheaper aftermarket stuff, plus they’re mostly done warping.

Also, when rotors are turned they usually take off too much material. They need not clean up 100%. Even substantial gouges and pits won’t hurt anything.

Also, in many cases, the rotors are fine even if not pretty, and don’t need even to be turned, much less replaced. They may need nothing but having the scale ground off. As long as the rotors are running true, the quality of the pads is much more important that the condition of the rotors. (Why does no one ever check TIR until there’s a problem, if then?)

My most satisfying brake jobs were “pad slaps” and the most disappointing included new rotors.

donbrew

Not my experience. I always get the cheapest rotors I can find and keep the rears adjusted, usually get 2-3 sets of pads worth. I found that LCA bushing caused the feel of warped rotors more often.
In my area Pep Boys will turn one rotor for around $35, sometimes they have 1/2 price coupons. I could not find any other shop that owned a rotor lathe, they all suggested a machine shop.
Agreed, it is the thickness of the metal that counts. More metal = better heat dissipation. Use a micrometer instead of eyes.

Bonez

Yeah, I just replaced the LCA and still got the rattle when braking so I assume its the joint in the steering. I also get a sound like brake drag ( rub when braking and turning ) today the shop said all brakes are fine front and back, the hubs are good as well, no tire rub, so not sure where the rib/grind noise is coming from? The spring seats on the struts are good, no tire wear , pads and rotors were almost 100% so apparently replaced before I got the car a few months ago.... hmmmmmmmmmmm ???