My T/S light has come on twice now. It has happen twice, in one week intervals. It is usually after long drives. When it comes on I noticed my car will shift hard. The next day when I have started it the light goes off and stays off. I took it to a mechanic to have him diagnose the problem. When I went to pick up my car he told me that the Cam Shaft Position Valve needed to be replaced. The paper he gave me has no code numbers on it. I was told it was a special order item ($304. + labor). I told him I have to wait. I went to look up what this is but couldn't find a cam shaft position valve. Can someone shed some light on this?

 

Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid
Use the search function, there is how to describing it. Should be what you're looking for from your description

 

Here's a link to the "How To' forum section for you ladydi....

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-tutorial-library-21/

It would be interesting to know what trouble codes your HHR was throwing when they checked it, the diagnostic codes are the most important info you can ever give in a post relating to mechanical troubles. I'm pretty dang sure that 07HHRLT has pegged the problem, the codes will just back it up.

Do give the "Search" function a try though, there is tons and tons of info to be found here.

P.S. to the forum!

 

Here is a direct link to the re and re procedure for what we are assuming the mechanic told you - the Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoids. There are 2 of them in the car, one for the intake camshaft, and one for the exhaust camshaft. The parts are approx. $50-80 each, and it takes us amateurs about 20-30 minutes to swap both of them out.

The replacement parts are available from your local dealer, as well as various auto parts stores. However, I'd recommend genuine GM replacements.

So $304 plus labour is a RIP-OFF!! (in my opinion)


https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-tutorial-library-21/camshaft-position-actuator-solenoid-valve-replacement-w-pics-p0010-11-p0013-14-a-28779/
The part numbers needed are near the top of the first posting of the thread.

PS: next time, insist that the mechanic gives you the diagnostic codes as it helps clarify the issues, and minimizes confusion. the codes related to problems with the solenoids are P0010 and P0011 for the Intake solenoids and P0013/14 for the exhaust side. You don't have to change them both at the same time if the codes are just point to one or the other, but many of us replace them both anyways.

 

Classic and text book case of a mechanic taking advantage of a unknowing female. Shame on him !!

 

It happens every day, and its not just women who get taken. Plenty of men aren't car savy too, and shifty mechanics know all to well how to pad invoices and add unneeded labor hours.

 

Mike
I have seen it happen and had it happen when I couldn't do some repairs on older cars. One time I had a clutch put in and the car came back with a blown head gasket. I fixed that one myself. Luckly I have found a good honest mechanic with in a mile of where I live. I have him take care of things that I can't.

 

Thanks to Whopper my repair was made easy. Step by step instructions and photos! Awesome. I didn't even have to throw any tools! (LOL). DT codes: right on. Part #: right on. Parts cost: right on the money. Straw tube trick: right on. It worked great...no broken clips. Great job on helping me out with this problem. Now there is no CEL or DTC! Transaxle shifts beautifully. Thank you!!!!

 

andy f. Glad it worked for you.

Now, if you'll just send whopper a new hat. Size XL. (his head swells from all the praise he gets. )

whopper: you know I'm just funnin with ya. Don't shoot!

 

Where's my gun? where's my gun? LOL at FMG (I'm too lazy to type out "firemangeorge" .....)

x2 on Glad it worked out for ya andy_f!