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Trailer Towing ... A troubling observation

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Old 08-31-2011, 05:33 PM
  #21  
 
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Okay...this is not about towing, but about what kind of hitch to buy for a hitch mobility lift. I have a Shoprider Scootie that weighs about 75 or 80 lbs. I need a mobility lift to put the Scootie in the back of my HHR. I need to install a hitch to accomodate a Harmar AL065 Inside/Outside Lift. The lift requires a Class II or Class III hitch. Please advise as to what hitch I should install. I know nothing about hitches except what I read here. Thank you. Lois
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Old 08-31-2011, 05:52 PM
  #22  
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I'm not a pro at this, Lois, but I don't think anybody makes a class II or better hitch for the HHR. Something may be able to be modified to fit that lift, though. Best to talk to a hitch shop, see what they can come up with.
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Old 08-31-2011, 06:12 PM
  #23  
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The largest hitch made for the HHR is,

Class 1
2000lb. tow capacity.
200lb. tounge weight max.

It sounds like your application requires the heavier tounge weight for lifting equiptment.

A Class 2 hitch would provide a 350 lb. tounge weight max.

If in fact you really need more then a 200lb. tounge weight requirement ... you cannot do it with the HHR.
Actually HHR allowable tounge weight is under 200 lbs.
Read your Owners Manual for more info.

There is also the HHR Gross Vehicle Max. weight to consider.

What is the total weight of the AL065 loader and the Scootie equiptment.

Last edited by Silverfox; 08-31-2011 at 11:21 PM.
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Old 08-31-2011, 10:48 PM
  #24  
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As Silverfox has so sagely pointed out, the HHR just isn't the vehicle to do what you're trying to do. HHR's just don't have the stuff for use as a tow vehicle in my opinion. there are other better choices when it comes to towing.
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Old 09-01-2011, 12:24 AM
  #25  
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One way to increase comfortability of ones self as far as being strong enough would be to strap the hitch above the floor level. That is locate the holes for the hitch mount and drill up thru floor,,take 2, 1/8" pieces of flat metal( or larger) cut to length to cover both mounts on one side ( on each side) plus say 2" beyond bolt holes. This transfers the weight to the main body instead of a thin stamped frame rail. This of course would make it a permanant part. Seal all areas of contact above fllor for moisture and use the correct length spacer between lower rail and floor to alleviate and crush from torquing the mount bolts...this would not weaken the mount area because the loads are now transfered thruout the strap area which actually increase usable tongue wt,, though I am not suggesting to do that.Stay with the 100 lb tongue weights unless your an engineer and can factor in the strength increases. This is just insurance for those hat are nervous about the weights....brakes, habits, trans are all still factors in total weights.
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