V8 HHR Build
#991
So, looking through the other thread on this and the beginnings of this one, this was initially supposed to be just a stock LS1 going in a rear drive HHR. I know a lot of the custom stuff would still need a lot of work, but do you think you would be done by now if you hadn't decided to beef up a few things? Or do you think you'd still be working on it?
#992
That's an excellent question. The answer is yes, probably. However I would have most likely already torn it down to make the changes that have been done. And besides, "you never get a second chance at first impressions ". When this car is unveiled, I want to absolutely blow everyone away.
#993
iStart installed
I mentioned this before but I don't think I've posted pictures of the iStart keyless ignition system. It has a remote that unlocks the doors and of course it does all the ignition chores too
#994
Want to sell your killer ride when it's completed?
When I was young, the day I finished the car with the day I wanted to sell it. Probably why I have had close to 150 cars in my life. I bought everyone because I was in love with it when I saw it. I had to own it. Sometimes I would keep the car only a day or two and traded on something else. Similar to my problem with wives. Probably why I've had six!
Now when I see these cars that I bought for a few dollars in the 50s 60s 70s and even the 80s, going to the price is legal for at auction, I can only imagine what some of these buyers think once they get home. Why did I buy this piece of junk it drives like a tank! It does not stop, it's sucks gas, it sounds like an empty beer can when I close the doors, change the spark plugs every 6 to 8000 miles! Separate points! That I forget, it overheats every time I drive it should point
Glad I don't go to the auctions anymore to get rid of my extra money. Let me know if interested in selling your car when it's done. I thought about having one built for myself but I may prefer to just fine when it's all done and the bugs are out of it. I'll be 72 in September and really cannot work on cars anymore.
Now when I see these cars that I bought for a few dollars in the 50s 60s 70s and even the 80s, going to the price is legal for at auction, I can only imagine what some of these buyers think once they get home. Why did I buy this piece of junk it drives like a tank! It does not stop, it's sucks gas, it sounds like an empty beer can when I close the doors, change the spark plugs every 6 to 8000 miles! Separate points! That I forget, it overheats every time I drive it should point
Glad I don't go to the auctions anymore to get rid of my extra money. Let me know if interested in selling your car when it's done. I thought about having one built for myself but I may prefer to just fine when it's all done and the bugs are out of it. I'll be 72 in September and really cannot work on cars anymore.
#996
Sorry that i have not been on here to give assistance in answering any of the technical questions. I will have to dive back in to where i last posted and start answering anything that already hasn't been by Cliff.
Its been a busy job, there were a lot of things that I went back and did some work on because I can't put my hands on something and then have it leave being anything less then perfect. I have a serious OCD issue when it comes to projects I work on.
I can post some of the details if its ok with Cliff, but I did quite a bit of rework on some things that were done by the previous "shop" that I considered shoddy (to say the least)
Just looking back a few pages from way out here on "page 100" I will give some feedback. I will take a look further back into the thread a little later.
Basically the best way to go is to start fresh. I started out the way I have with every engine swap and de-pinned the entire engine harness from the PCM connectors. Then I connect what are now basically "pig tails" back to where they go (sensors, injectors, coils, etc.). I do a temporary but thorough zip-tying of the harness so that it is routed how i want it. Of course a lot of the wires will be too short and not make it to the PCM location but that part comes later. Once the harness is tied how i want i pull the entire harness back off and laid it on the board. The TONS of tie wraps keep it in the shape i wanted it. Then i added marks to the board as to how long all the wires had to be to reach the PCM. Once thats done i put a bunch of zip ties onto the board to lock down the harness and cut off all the ties that were holding the harness to shape. This exposes all of the wires that are way too short now to reach the PCM. Then all there is to do is add wire to get them to the desired length. I also DON'T make any multi wire splices IN the harness. For example, all of the power wires for the injectors run back individually to the end of the harness and are spliced outside of the main harness trunk. This not only keeps any large splices from being damaged but it also allows you to individually check the circuit. Say for instance, individual measurement of each injector.
Its been a busy job, there were a lot of things that I went back and did some work on because I can't put my hands on something and then have it leave being anything less then perfect. I have a serious OCD issue when it comes to projects I work on.
I can post some of the details if its ok with Cliff, but I did quite a bit of rework on some things that were done by the previous "shop" that I considered shoddy (to say the least)
Just looking back a few pages from way out here on "page 100" I will give some feedback. I will take a look further back into the thread a little later.
Basically the best way to go is to start fresh. I started out the way I have with every engine swap and de-pinned the entire engine harness from the PCM connectors. Then I connect what are now basically "pig tails" back to where they go (sensors, injectors, coils, etc.). I do a temporary but thorough zip-tying of the harness so that it is routed how i want it. Of course a lot of the wires will be too short and not make it to the PCM location but that part comes later. Once the harness is tied how i want i pull the entire harness back off and laid it on the board. The TONS of tie wraps keep it in the shape i wanted it. Then i added marks to the board as to how long all the wires had to be to reach the PCM. Once thats done i put a bunch of zip ties onto the board to lock down the harness and cut off all the ties that were holding the harness to shape. This exposes all of the wires that are way too short now to reach the PCM. Then all there is to do is add wire to get them to the desired length. I also DON'T make any multi wire splices IN the harness. For example, all of the power wires for the injectors run back individually to the end of the harness and are spliced outside of the main harness trunk. This not only keeps any large splices from being damaged but it also allows you to individually check the circuit. Say for instance, individual measurement of each injector.
#1000
Out with the new, In with the newer
Sorry I haven't posted in a while. Thanks to Craig Gibson's excellent work, the wiring is complete enough for me to finish it and the engine runs. I'm now replacing the Camaro rear axle with a Currie 9" rear end. I've got several days to complete this over the 4th of July weekend.. it should be sitting back on its feet in a day or so, barring any problems. The first photo shows the Camaro rear axle out of the car. It's a slow process massaging this new unit into position.
Last edited by RJ_RS_SS_350; 07-01-2017 at 06:30 PM. Reason: reposition pic