fastsuv

I replaced the brake master cylinder on the red SS.

The pedal would sometimes go down low during braking and you had to pump it once to get it back higher.

As usual, the fuse box is in the way and has to be loosened and bungeed out of the way as much as possible.

The job would be much easier on an automatic transmission car. On the manuals (like mine) there is a hose going from the master cylinder reservoir to the brake master cylinder. The hose connection at the brake reservoir is a type of "shrunk-on" connection over 3 ribs on the reservoir. So it had to be disconnected at the brake master cylinder end, which is a "squeeze-from-both-sides-to-release" quick-disconnect. Unfortunately, it's tucked between the brake booster and strut tower, along with some AC lines in the way. You can barely get a hand in there and when you do, one of the release buttons is facing the brake booster. After about 1/2 hour and a lot of cuts and scrapes on my arms I finally released it.

The new master cylinder reservoir has the 3-ribbed nipple for the brake master cylinder hose. However, getting the hose off the old reservoir looked almost impossible (without breaking the hose off, which is a very rigid plastic). So I swapped the old reservoir onto the new master cylinder, problem solved.

The factory service manual says to bench-bleed the new master cylinder (as I expected) but then says to loosen every fitting on the ABS module (one at a time) while someone presses the brake pedal to get the air out. Essentially the same procedure you do at each caliper to bleed it. There are 6 ports on the ABS module, 2 inputs from the master cylinder and 4 outputs to each wheel. Of course, this makes a mess as the ABS module is bolted to the front subframe and brake fluid goes all over. Finally, bleed the brakes at each caliper in this order: RR, LF, LR, RF.

Then make sure all the brake fluid is wiped and cleaned from any surfaces since brake fluid is a good paint remover.

In the end, this solved the problem and the pedal feels great now.

Steve

firemangeorge

👍
So did you do a brake fluid flush/ refill ? And how are those pads and rotors holding up ?

Oldblue

Good job Steve, thanks for sharing your resolution to your SS manual brake problem.

fastsuv

I didn't do a complete flush, but probably 75% of the fluid is new since I started out with a new MC and forced fluid out of the ABS module.

The pads and rotors are holding up well. It didn't get driven over winter because I don't want it exposed to salt since this HHR is my premier one and hopefully will outlast the rest. For winter it sat in the barn for protection. We put on less than 1000 miles since I got it.

Steve

the_shmoo

Matz

Almost exactly a month later my SS is still in the shop for the clutch repair. Turns out that the clutch was near its end of life, so it was good that I went ahead and had them replace it. Apparently the flywheel also needed replaced.

Unfortunately, when they put it back together, the clutch didn’t fully engage. The vendor sent the wrong slave cylinder. Ouch.

The new replacement was sent, but it may not be done until next week. We’ll be camping, so the earliest I can expect to get my HHR back is the week of July 15.

PulpFriction

Went to the local pick-n-pull to replace a broken vent louver (cost me $1, thank you very much.) Found it in a 2006 2.2 w/ 120K(?) miles, said it "ran good" when arrived. They pull motors for $100. I'm guessing maybe this motor is a PITA to find.

sleeper

Drove mine to local Spectrum store to see the upgraded cell phones.. & other stuff.