Am I crazy? Wheel removal
12-16-2010 | 01:43 PM
#21
Senior Member
Joined: 07-05-2008
Posts: 5,464
From: Akron Ohio
I think we talked about this product before.....SuperLube w/teflon grease.
I use it on the mating portion of the wheel on every wheel/tire rotation AND work it into the aluminum material. Have never had a problem with a wheel sticking. Of course, I live in a climate that does not experience the rain and snow that others have. But it also greatly minimizes the rust that occurs from washing. The rust on the hub can be removed with a brief and brisk application of fine steel wool.
I use it on the mating portion of the wheel on every wheel/tire rotation AND work it into the aluminum material. Have never had a problem with a wheel sticking. Of course, I live in a climate that does not experience the rain and snow that others have. But it also greatly minimizes the rust that occurs from washing. The rust on the hub can be removed with a brief and brisk application of fine steel wool.
We often see the same issues on engines with the metal/ aluminum combinations.
Some places lubes can help but in areas like ours here they often fail vs the weather conditions.
12-16-2010 | 04:08 PM
#22
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 11-25-2009
Posts: 81
From: Blue Bell, PA
Is this the same issue with the valve stems and cap? Two different metals? I 've never seen them corrode as they do on the SS. (That's what started this mess...the steel [?] cap was fused to the corroded [aluminum?] threads)
12-16-2010 | 04:10 PM
#23
Senior Member
Joined: 07-05-2008
Posts: 5,464
From: Akron Ohio
It can be. The best you can do is put a little dab of antiseize on. It may help.
12-16-2010 | 04:53 PM
#24
Senior Member
Joined: 03-06-2010
Posts: 6,869
From: Ohio
Yes, it's what caused the mess to begin with..... If you've got steel valve stems use plastic caps or material other then the aluminum aftermarket type. (some cheap aftermarket are chromed ABS it's better that loosing a valve stem)
12-16-2010 | 10:34 PM
#25
Platinum Member
Joined: 01-09-2007
Posts: 15,983
From: SE USA
This works: https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...t=32639&page=3
And must just be the newer HHRs that have alloy valve stems, cause mine are Brass.
And must just be the newer HHRs that have alloy valve stems, cause mine are Brass.
12-17-2010 | 01:55 PM
#26
Senior Member
Joined: 01-04-2010
Posts: 1,584
From: Imported from Detroit
For the stuck rim... I've always had good luck with just kicking it.
Second, do you have the TPMS sensors on your HHR? If so, did you replace your stock ALUM valve caps? I bet you did and with some other metal (ie: chromed steel) and they corroded to your alum TPMS valve stems. I know cause it happened to me with my TBSS. All 4 of them corroded on and were snapped off like you said yours did.
Second, do you have the TPMS sensors on your HHR? If so, did you replace your stock ALUM valve caps? I bet you did and with some other metal (ie: chromed steel) and they corroded to your alum TPMS valve stems. I know cause it happened to me with my TBSS. All 4 of them corroded on and were snapped off like you said yours did.
12-17-2010 | 02:21 PM
#27
Senior Member
Joined: 01-20-2010
Posts: 202
From: SE Michigan
I've gotten into the habit of using a light coating of Permatex anti-seize purchased at the local Napa store on the back of all the aluminum rims that see winter. Works like a charm. I spent four hours on one car (friend of the wife-really wanted to pass that cost onto her-not my fault car sat for 4 years)
Plan is to add it at the first rotation of da wifeys lunch box rims.
Plan is to add it at the first rotation of da wifeys lunch box rims.
Last edited by got2boostit2; 12-18-2010 at 04:17 PM.
12-17-2010 | 10:35 PM
#29
Senior Member
Joined: 01-20-2010
Posts: 202
From: SE Michigan
