HHr SS Electrical Problems Growing
#101
The starter ALWAYS has power, that is what the wire from the fuse box/battery is. The key tells the BCM to enable the starter relay which energizes the starter solenoid. The BCM checks to see if the clutch pedal is fully depressed (on an automatic in neutral/park and brake pedal depressed I don't have a 5 speed so I don't know about the brake pedal) . Then it sends the signal.
#102
So quick update. We managed to use a wire from the positive post of the starter to the ignition terminal (where the plug goes) and got the starter to engage, and the car attempting to crank. When I say attempting, theres still no spark or fuel pressure, but it seems like theres some life back in trying to start. So we followed the wire for the ignition op to the fuse box. We followed all the steps in this forum I found (every single thing in the forum is basically my situation)
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/prob...-click-328601/
Difference is on pin 2 (ignition) of the crank relay theres 12 volts. The other 3 pins read pretty much nothing. Following the jump procedure mentioned in the posted forum here, we ended up blowing the crank fuse (30A I think, number 5 top row of fuse box). Re-analyzing the wording in the forum we tried to create a better ground, tried swapping relays and ignition module (I think 20A fuse). Nothing was blown except the one crank fuse. The ignition pin is getting power at the fuse box, but there must be an open circuit. Something is telling something else, not to do something.
In short:
- Starter wires have power, but ignition wire does not, and a separate wire from positive starter post to ignition plug terminal "starts" the car (I believe we bypassed the solenoid)
- Crank relay ignition pin has 12V, the other 3 are being weird
- Something between the starter to fuse box is wrong for ignition wire
- Something between ignition at key, to fuse box may be wrong
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/prob...-click-328601/
Difference is on pin 2 (ignition) of the crank relay theres 12 volts. The other 3 pins read pretty much nothing. Following the jump procedure mentioned in the posted forum here, we ended up blowing the crank fuse (30A I think, number 5 top row of fuse box). Re-analyzing the wording in the forum we tried to create a better ground, tried swapping relays and ignition module (I think 20A fuse). Nothing was blown except the one crank fuse. The ignition pin is getting power at the fuse box, but there must be an open circuit. Something is telling something else, not to do something.
In short:
- Starter wires have power, but ignition wire does not, and a separate wire from positive starter post to ignition plug terminal "starts" the car (I believe we bypassed the solenoid)
- Crank relay ignition pin has 12V, the other 3 are being weird
- Something between the starter to fuse box is wrong for ignition wire
- Something between ignition at key, to fuse box may be wrong
#103
The starter ALWAYS has power, that is what the wire from the fuse box/battery is. The key tells the BCM to enable the starter relay which energizes the starter solenoid. The BCM checks to see if the clutch pedal is fully depressed (on an automatic in neutral/park and brake pedal depressed I don't have a 5 speed so I don't know about the brake pedal) . Then it sends the signal.
#105
#106
Occam's razor is the tool to use. The most obvious thing is probably the problem. THE CLUTCH PEDAL SENSOR..
If you want to run around theorizing about arcane possibilities be my guest. But please accept that the pedal sensor is THE most likely demon.
If you want to run around theorizing about arcane possibilities be my guest. But please accept that the pedal sensor is THE most likely demon.
#108
Ok thanks and I have a bad habit of doing such things with everything, not sure if its the adhd or the stress but I'll try more focus on that
#109
#110
The "book" says it needs to be calibrated but most people don't bother with it.
My guess is it needs to be adjusted. Could be bad or a bad wire or a bad connection but those would have a code associated.
The sensor signal should be 0 Volts fully released and 5 volts fully depressed.
My guess is it needs to be adjusted. Could be bad or a bad wire or a bad connection but those would have a code associated.
The sensor signal should be 0 Volts fully released and 5 volts fully depressed.