[QUOTE=MDoherty97;916245]Yes actually when the shifter cable broke the clutch line from the master cylinder down to the transmission (was a ***** to describe to parts people) popped off of the master cylinder shaft. Excuse my terminology as I know nothing....I had to jerry rig a clip out of high grade wire to keep the cable on the cylinder shaft, and bled the lines and such accordingly. The pedal now is no longer stuck to the floor as it was when the line was disconnected, and since bleeding the clutch. The car did stall upon 2nd start up, user error, and hasn't started since[/QUOTE]

So, somebody else wrote this?

 

Still thinking clutch position sensor out of alignment settings.

 

Ok I'll give that a try because if the brake sensor works and the clutch one doesn't swapping will tell me if it's the fault, thanks. I didn't even know they were the same

 

Regardless of no codes I'm still thinking that since it wouldn't start after stalling. Even trying to start in gears doesn't work so that's the only thing I can think of. But what would cause that to go out?

 

[QUOTE=donbrew;916438]No, but you miss the point of it refusing to start AFTER I touched the clutch line and bled the clutch. The car started fine after the clutch work, its after the stall it stopped working. I haven't touched the clutch since or anything related to it

 

Speaking of alignment settings, is there a way to just realign? I just don't know how it works, its my first manual

 

If the engine is not running you will not get meaningful readings. If it is not running the modules will not be getting power, so they will lose contact.
I got the point: After you messed with the clutch pedal it started then stalled and no start after. Doesn't that make you think maybe something to do with the clutch pedal? Cause & effect?
Only you know what you did to make the pedal work, I would guess the position switch or one of it's wires is malfunctioning.

 

The sensor is a rotary design. The pedal does not use the full rotation, and I believe the other pedal uses a different section of the rotation. So it's possible that both pedals will work correctly after swapping.

It could be that something was loose, and the jarring force of stalling by releasing the clutch while in gear with the parking brake on, dislodged the loose part.

Could be anywhere, not just on the clutch pedal. But since it was jury-rigged, that's a good place to start looking.

 

I'm thinking maybe a combination of the clutch sensor not working, and then something else to do with the wiring both are giving me all these symptoms. But would the clutch sensor have anything to do with the starter not getting power? I mean its getting power, but not enough to engage the starter. What should the starter ignition wire be at voltage without starting and when trying to start?

I'm just trying to find any correlation between the pedal and everything else

 

The clutch line from the master cylinder to the transmission (where it gets bled) is where I rigged a wire to hold the line on. The stall wasn't super aggressive because I had the car in the air and I didn't give the car any gas when I stalled it (oops). The parking brake wasn't on at the time, but there definitely could be something loose, I just don't know what it could be. Any chance maybe the gear selector at the transmission wasn't seated right (where the shift cable links snap on) and maybe the stall makes the car think the car isn't actually in neutral? Like I have no idea