Rocky1974

K750012 definitely has the zerk fittings for greasing, but I'm not sure about K750428. They way I posted the PNs and descriptions in my last post is exactly the way they are listed on Moogs website. I can tell you that if you click on the PNs and bring up the photos, both PNs show the zerk fittings, but I did think it was interesting that they did not describe K750428 as a "Problem Solver" and did not mention the "powdered metal gusher bearing to allow grease to penetrate bearing surfaces", like they did for the other two PNs. I'd think that if K75028 had those features, they mention it in the the description, like they did for the other PNs.

Rocky1974

Here's the pics from Moogs website.

K750012



K750428



K80252

sinabu

Were they hard to replace? I want to kind of do my suspension all at once. I'm getting the clunking sound coming from the front so I was going to get new shocks and struts along with my lowering springs and these sound like a pretty good replacement if it fixed alot of your issues and not to expensive so to ahead and do while i'm under there.

http://www.summitracing.com/search?k...ergy%209.5159G

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-k750012/overview/

SS fan

those are the ones.

Rocky1974

The sway bar links are very easy to replace. You just jack the car up and take a wheel off and they right there. There's one nut on each end. The only difficult part is that once the nut is loosened, the stud tends to spin in the old link. You have to figure out how to hold it in order to get the nut the rest of the way off. I did it with vise-grips and since it's the old one, you don't have to worry about damaging it. The new Moog ones have a place to hold the stud on them with a 18mm wrench, so they're no problem to install or remove. I sprayed mine with penetrating oil a few days before I did the job. I used an air impact wrench on the upper nut and an air ratchet on the lower nut and they came right off. Keep in mind that if you just jack up one side of the car, you are putting a lot of tension on the sway bar, so you may have to use a jack under the suspension to remove this tension to get them to line up.
I haven't done the sway bar bushings yet. I ordered my parts from Summit also and the links showed right up, but the bushings are shipping directly from Energy. From what I've read they are not so easy to do. The rear stud is so close to the body that it makes it very difficult to get the nut off. You have to either lower the sub-frame or get creative.

sinabu

Cool! please keep updated. Prob in a month or so I want to go ahead and order my shocks/struts.

I'm still indecisive on which lowering springs I want but I think I'm going to go for the B&G for the Cobalt

Rocky1974

OK, I had the RH front wheel off to replace a tire pressure sensor(What a pain in the butt those are!) and I went ahead and replaced the RH sway bar end link. Now all my front end noises are 100% gone. When I hit a bump now, its dead silence! While I had the old one off, I compared it with the new one(Moog K750012). The new one is exactly the same length and the studs on the ends are the same size. The only difference is that the Moog piece is much beefier. I also double checked and there is indeed a spacer/washer on the upper mount that looks just like the one in the photo of Moog K750428 that I posted above. At this point, I'm assuming that this spacer/washer is the only difference between Moog K750012 and K750428, and that K80252 is too long. Part# K750012 seems to be much more common and is therefore cheaper. My conclusion is that you can use either K750012 or K750428 on any HHR and that the only time K750428 would be important, would be that if you had a SS strut and didn't have the spacer/washer for some reason. If anybody finds out something different, please let me know.
I'm going to call mine fixed, for the time being. I think my next project is going to be to do something about the ride quality. It's a little bit too much boy racer for my tastes.