patrick49

This is my first turbo'd car, so I'm not quite familiar with some of the basics. I've tried to read up on it through threads, but to get the clearest interpretation, I think this could/should become a sticky thread to answer general HHR SS turbo questions. Basically I'd like for this thread to be a newbie's go-to guide for all things relating to the SS's turbo - a "no question is too stupid or basic" zone if you will. I'll throw a couple out for starters...

--What is a normal/average (I know there are a lot of factors including air temp and moisture) reading for the boost gage under easy, normal, heavy, and flooring-it acceleration for a stock SS? What are the expected differences between Auto and Manual?

--What are general maintenance and upkeep rules for the turbo?

--How does the launch control interact with the turbo, and how does this differ between auto and manual?

--What is the best way to utilize boost in takeoffs and passing, and how does this differ between auto and manual?

--For Auto's, how does I and L influence launch speed and turbo influence?

pappa_smurf

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbocharger#Advantages.
Try this and see if it helps.

white heat

Also

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm

405HP_Z06

Basic to advanced tech from Garrett: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...ch_center.html

prod

Something very important to maintain your turbo: let the turbo cool before shutting off the engine. If you race around and turn off the engine while the turbocharger is still red hot, it can seize up solid - bye bye turbo.

traketo

How long should you let it cool down? Also, what if you're just driving normal, do you still need to let it cool down?

Thanks!!

hyperv6

With the newer Turbo's this is not longer needed.

In the past Tubo's did not have proper cooling and oiling and they would have problems with the oil line carboning up.

Most turbo's today are better cooled and have added oil protection. Synthetic oil is much better for high heat that it will not carbon or break down like the old oils.

If your owners book does not state a specific shut down then treat it as any other car. With a 5 year warranty GM would state what ever it took to make sure this thing lives as they do not want to replace the Turbo's at 36,000 miles like the old T Type Buicks.

In the past the T Types and Chrysler Turbo's it was important back then as many failed but today few Turbo's fail under normal use.

prod

Yeah I have heard that, but words like "few" and "normal use" are open to interpretation. Admittedly I dont have an SS, so I dont know first hand how hot they get. Do they still glow red after heavy use? Does anyone know what type of bearings are used, sleeve, ball or roller?
I owned a chrysler turbo and took care of it, even made larger coolant lines for it. Those engines were crap, I replaced mine twice and did a rebuild myself once, but was always able to keep the original turbocharger. Im a cautious person, so when I had it happen to friends, I decided not to take chances.

pappa_smurf

I guess you're not going to get any HHR SS specific answers here. The GM Tech know-it all's and the SS genius's don't have anything to add. All they want to do is race and spend money on gas and mods. So, I guess you're idea of a sticky is going nowhere. But then again, I'm still waiting on my SS to be built. Some of your inquiries seem to be race motivated, but like I said, no one at home there. Turbo's are temperamental little beasts and need very little in the way of "special care". Just keep feeding it that 91 or better octane fuel and enjoy the ride. Austin is a warm and mostly humid environment and these factors will effect your turbo performance. I lived in Del Rio before moving to SoCal.

rodhotter

top shelf real synthetic oil, redline prolly best easy to get but $$$$$, its ester base takes the most heat, amsoil is a good second choice IMHO, 174,500 miles and going