Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve Replacement (w. pics) - P0010/11 P0013/14
03-30-2012, 08:41 PM
#141
Join Date: 04-24-2010
Location: Lakewood, CO
Posts: 1
Sadly, it looks like I'm gonna' have to replace the intake camshaft actuator solenoid on my 2.4L--it keeps setting the P0010 code.
04-03-2012, 10:49 PM
#142
Join Date: 10-10-2011
Location: SoCal
Posts: 5
Good luck on that - I'm saying 55 minutes for you - LOL
Might be a good idea to shoot some spray lube on the air cleaner box hold down points where they mount into the grommets ahead of time. The last time I took mine apart, the front mounting point was firmly stuck in it's grommet (even tho' I had used a bit of silicone grease when reassembling it prior) - and the grommet came apart in pieces. I had to jury-rig a replacement grommet from the parts bin.
Might be a good idea to shoot some spray lube on the air cleaner box hold down points where they mount into the grommets ahead of time. The last time I took mine apart, the front mounting point was firmly stuck in it's grommet (even tho' I had used a bit of silicone grease when reassembling it prior) - and the grommet came apart in pieces. I had to jury-rig a replacement grommet from the parts bin.
Took me well over an hour, lol!
However, the area where the solenoids were was utterly filthy, with small pebbles dirt and debris mixed with oil. The trick here was for me to remove all that without dropping any in the solenoid holes, so after removing the first one, I stuck a rolled up paper towel in the hole, then used a screwdriver to scrape up the gunk. Then, using a bit of clean 10w30, i dabbed a cotton swab in the oil, then picked up the gunk as much as I could. Then after removing the second solenoid (making sure to know which plug went where), then plugging that up, I went to town scrubbing and scraping, and now it's clean. That took quite a while.I broke both the front grommet (super dry and cracked anyways) and one of the grey square "U" secure clips on the solenoid plug. Before I start my great internet hunt, anyone know how to obtain these parts?
I didn't need to undo the side piping on the engine cover air filter holder, since on mine, the pipe easily slips out of the side wall, so I didn't bother flipping the position of the screw.
My T/C-off and engine light and "service traction" previously came on whenever I went up a steep incline. That hard shifting, though - holy crap - as an owner of a car that had to have it's transmission replaced - that needed to get fixed ASAP. After the solenoid replacement today, I just went on the four known hills that would make my lights go on without fail, and...
HELLS YEAH!!!
No more lights and shifting and such.
Whopper,
,thank you very much for starting this detailed thread and for the pics. This forum is invaluable as a resource for my 2007 HHR.
04-04-2012, 01:37 AM
#143
Platinum Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 04-09-2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 7,037
Glad it helped you out project paperclip. No gold star for the amount of time it took you though LOL - 
The grommet you might be able to get at your local chevy parts dept - I don't imagine they are much in the way of $'s. Mine broke the last time I took the air cleaner housing off, the same as yours (all dried and cracked). I jury rigged a grommet from my parts bins so it would work -I think it was for holding a motorcycle side cover originally.
The grey clip - yeah a fair number of people break them until they discover the secret to removing them. If I broke mine, I wouldn't bother replacing it, but would find a way of using a zap strap or such to hold it in place. One probably has to buy the whole connector block, and swap them out (doable by pulling the pins out and moving them into the new block - IF you know the secret on how to get the pins out LOL).
Good job tho' overall - glad it worked for you.
The grommet you might be able to get at your local chevy parts dept - I don't imagine they are much in the way of $'s. Mine broke the last time I took the air cleaner housing off, the same as yours (all dried and cracked). I jury rigged a grommet from my parts bins so it would work -I think it was for holding a motorcycle side cover originally.
The grey clip - yeah a fair number of people break them until they discover the secret to removing them. If I broke mine, I wouldn't bother replacing it, but would find a way of using a zap strap or such to hold it in place. One probably has to buy the whole connector block, and swap them out (doable by pulling the pins out and moving them into the new block - IF you know the secret on how to get the pins out LOL).
Good job tho' overall - glad it worked for you.
Last edited by whopper; 09-09-2013 at 02:19 AM. Reason: typo fixed
04-04-2012, 05:54 PM
#144
Senior Member
Join Date: 10-21-2008
Location: hemet, calif.
Posts: 1,831
I still say we need to take a collection for Whopper as he has saved a lot of us a lot of money or at least get him a 30 gallon of Mobil 1, as he has to change oil everytime someone mentions oil changes.
04-30-2012, 09:17 PM
#145
New Member
Join Date: 08-13-2008
Location: So Calif
Posts: 14
Thanks ALL
I had intake code fault. Thanks, runs smooth!!!! just want to tell you, with tools ready! 15 mins to change both. (thanks to all your help) Pat
04-30-2012, 11:19 PM
#146
Platinum Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 04-09-2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 7,037
05-04-2012, 11:51 AM
#147
Senior Member
Join Date: 01-21-2010
Location: The Middie OHIO
Posts: 1,700
Whopper's magnificent post comes to the rescue again. I had the same problem (around page 7 lol) and replaced intake cam actuator 12646783. Was going to do both and they only had the one that I needed (hooray?)...guess what...p0013 and p0014 today. Looks like I'm in the market for an exhaust cam actuator 12646784. Yay me 
As many before (myself included) thank you Whopper! Now lets see if I can find the damn thing.
As many before (myself included) thank you Whopper! Now lets see if I can find the damn thing.
05-04-2012, 04:38 PM
#148
Join Date: 10-10-2011
Location: SoCal
Posts: 5
Whopper's magnificent post comes to the rescue again. I had the same problem (around page 7 lol) and replaced intake cam actuator 12646783. Was going to do both and they only had the one that I needed (hooray?)...guess what...p0013 and p0014 today. Looks like I'm in the market for an exhaust cam actuator 12646784. Yay me
As many before (myself included) thank you Whopper! Now lets see if I can find the damn thing.
As many before (myself included) thank you Whopper! Now lets see if I can find the damn thing.
http://gm-partscenter.com/parts/2006...icleid=1432000
I've been going a month now with no lights and hard shifting, happy as a pig in sh*t.
Thanks again, Whopper!
05-04-2012, 05:51 PM
#149
Senior Member
Join Date: 01-21-2010
Location: The Middie OHIO
Posts: 1,700
Found one that I needed at Sweeney Chevrolet in Cincy, which happens to be the same stealership that I bought the intake actuator at...apparently they are the only ones in town that can seem to get them. 58 bux with tax, but I have it in hand today. Of course, when I come out from buying the part, the cel is off, 3 cycles after the code was ran last. I'm still putting the.part on!
05-04-2012, 07:05 PM
#150
Platinum Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 04-09-2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 7,037
Found one that I needed at Sweeney Chevrolet in Cincy, which happens to be the same stealership that I bought the intake actuator at...apparently they are the only ones in town that can seem to get them. 58 bux with tax, but I have it in hand today. Of course, when I come out from buying the part, the cel is off, 3 cycles after the code was ran last. I'm still putting the.part on!
