Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve Replacement (w. pics) - P0010/11 P0013/14
#241
That is why it is important to read some of the longer threads - the part numbers history was last notated on the 22 page of this thread. And a quick call to your Chevy parts dept will confirm for you.
#242
Hi Whopper,
Thanks, I actually read page 22 but errantly looked at the "date joined" instead of realizing the post was from this month.
Thanks also for starting this thread long ago!
--dopplerjeff5000
Thanks, I actually read page 22 but errantly looked at the "date joined" instead of realizing the post was from this month.
Thanks also for starting this thread long ago!
--dopplerjeff5000
#243
dopplerjeff
I can only speak for what I used in my 2009 2.2L.
The part number for the Intake solenoid was at that time(Mar 2012):
12646783
I can only speak for what I used in my 2009 2.2L.
The part number for the Intake solenoid was at that time(Mar 2012):
12646783
#244
dopplerjeff5000 -
- hope it works out for you. Those part numbers have changed twice over the years - and I suspect they will keep changing - they must do it to keep us on our toes I think!
- hope it works out for you. Those part numbers have changed twice over the years - and I suspect they will keep changing - they must do it to keep us on our toes I think!
#245
Latest update:
I didn't have time to deal with the solenoid issue for a couple days, but I cleared the codes the Wednesday evening.
Thursday morning on my way to work, it set the T/C light again and about 15 miles later the CEL came on. On the way home same thing.
Friday Morning - repeat. Friday evening, both lights were on when I started the car. Fuel economy was reduced by upwards of 15% anytime both lites were on. Hard shifts every time the T/C lite was on; as stated in the GM Service manual, it will turn the T/C lite on even though there is nothing wrong with T/C.
Saturday morning, took off the air cleaner and the connector to the intake actuator solenoid. The resistance measured across the solenoid was 180 ohms. As everyone already knows, that means it's a bad solenoid.
Originally I stated I was going to change the oil first, but when it came down to it, it would have been more work, a waste of 1/2 spent oil and filter, with the same result, a bad solenoid.
Also noted was the fact the solenoid has been leaking engine oil up through the top and into the connector cavity. It then spilled down into the valley between the two camshafts and collected dirt there. That's a nice feature.
I ordered the solenoid from O'Reilly AP and received a "Dorman" Brand Solenoid. I wanted a GM Part, but they apparently don't carry that one. There is a one year warranty on the Dorman, so I accepted it. I usually don't buy these kind of parts unless they are OEM, but I figured "a bird in the hand..." (you know the rest)
Okay, the Dorman part: open the white box and there is a small amount of bubble wrap in the box to keep the part from moving around while in the box. The solenoid itself is vacuum wrapped in what looks like a tiny food vac-sealed plastic. Remove it from the wrap, and you find clear, low viscosity oil lightly coating the entire solenoid. This packaging definitely eliminates any packaging dust entering or otherwise fouling the unit.
If you buy one of these, be careful not to scratch the plating on the new part while cutting the vacuum wrap. A scratch through the plating would invite corrosion quickly.
The solenoid appears to be plated and not painted like the GM parts. It comes with a new plated fastener, but it has a 8mm hex instead of the OEM 10mm. The nice feature of this Dorman fastener is that it comes with a nylon bushing that has just enough interference fit that it keeps it from falling out of the solenoid.
A word on the plating: My experience is plating on 3rd party parts do not hold up compared to OEM plated parts. I would hope they did their homework, but they have to make money. So, the jury is still out here, only time will tell.
Oh, this part cost $45.00.
Installation was straight forward, though it was a little tighter fit than the OEM part I removed. It had a black o-ring instead of the OEM's brown.
I did clean the area around the solenoid as well as I could (after removing the solenoid), short of getting out the engine degreaser and air hose. That said I should have done exactly that PRIOR to removal of the OEM part.
Next step was re-assembling everything and clear all the codes, test drive and VOILA! The old HHR is back to normal!
Thanks to everyone who participated on this thread!
EDIT: The Dorman P/N for my 2007 2.4L HHR intake side solenoid is 917-215 (per O'Reilly AP)
I didn't have time to deal with the solenoid issue for a couple days, but I cleared the codes the Wednesday evening.
Thursday morning on my way to work, it set the T/C light again and about 15 miles later the CEL came on. On the way home same thing.
Friday Morning - repeat. Friday evening, both lights were on when I started the car. Fuel economy was reduced by upwards of 15% anytime both lites were on. Hard shifts every time the T/C lite was on; as stated in the GM Service manual, it will turn the T/C lite on even though there is nothing wrong with T/C.
Saturday morning, took off the air cleaner and the connector to the intake actuator solenoid. The resistance measured across the solenoid was 180 ohms. As everyone already knows, that means it's a bad solenoid.
Originally I stated I was going to change the oil first, but when it came down to it, it would have been more work, a waste of 1/2 spent oil and filter, with the same result, a bad solenoid.
Also noted was the fact the solenoid has been leaking engine oil up through the top and into the connector cavity. It then spilled down into the valley between the two camshafts and collected dirt there. That's a nice feature.
I ordered the solenoid from O'Reilly AP and received a "Dorman" Brand Solenoid. I wanted a GM Part, but they apparently don't carry that one. There is a one year warranty on the Dorman, so I accepted it. I usually don't buy these kind of parts unless they are OEM, but I figured "a bird in the hand..." (you know the rest)
Okay, the Dorman part: open the white box and there is a small amount of bubble wrap in the box to keep the part from moving around while in the box. The solenoid itself is vacuum wrapped in what looks like a tiny food vac-sealed plastic. Remove it from the wrap, and you find clear, low viscosity oil lightly coating the entire solenoid. This packaging definitely eliminates any packaging dust entering or otherwise fouling the unit.
If you buy one of these, be careful not to scratch the plating on the new part while cutting the vacuum wrap. A scratch through the plating would invite corrosion quickly.
The solenoid appears to be plated and not painted like the GM parts. It comes with a new plated fastener, but it has a 8mm hex instead of the OEM 10mm. The nice feature of this Dorman fastener is that it comes with a nylon bushing that has just enough interference fit that it keeps it from falling out of the solenoid.
A word on the plating: My experience is plating on 3rd party parts do not hold up compared to OEM plated parts. I would hope they did their homework, but they have to make money. So, the jury is still out here, only time will tell.
Oh, this part cost $45.00.
Installation was straight forward, though it was a little tighter fit than the OEM part I removed. It had a black o-ring instead of the OEM's brown.
I did clean the area around the solenoid as well as I could (after removing the solenoid), short of getting out the engine degreaser and air hose. That said I should have done exactly that PRIOR to removal of the OEM part.
Next step was re-assembling everything and clear all the codes, test drive and VOILA! The old HHR is back to normal!
Thanks to everyone who participated on this thread!
EDIT: The Dorman P/N for my 2007 2.4L HHR intake side solenoid is 917-215 (per O'Reilly AP)
Last edited by MichiganMarty; 02-23-2013 at 02:48 PM. Reason: Added Dorman P/N
#247
thanks for the info posted MichiganMarty - good info.
I may be time for me to replace a solenoid or two again. After having the Traction control light come on a few days ago and clearing after a shutdown and restart, it came on a couple of times tonight along with some minor hard shifting, but it cleared each time after a shutdown and restart of the car. Later the ECL came on, but the TCL did not light, and it is shifting normally again. Will throw the CEL reader on it tomorrow and see what it says.
Threw the reader on today - P0106 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/BARD Sensor/range/performance. Well, it's not the solenoids. Time for some research, and check the MAP sensor connection and intake tube etc..
I may be time for me to replace a solenoid or two again. After having the Traction control light come on a few days ago and clearing after a shutdown and restart, it came on a couple of times tonight along with some minor hard shifting, but it cleared each time after a shutdown and restart of the car. Later the ECL came on, but the TCL did not light, and it is shifting normally again. Will throw the CEL reader on it tomorrow and see what it says.
Threw the reader on today - P0106 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/BARD Sensor/range/performance. Well, it's not the solenoids. Time for some research, and check the MAP sensor connection and intake tube etc..
Last edited by whopper; 02-24-2013 at 03:06 PM.
#249
Great walkthrough!
Thanks for the great instructions! I had a P0010 code coming up on my car that started on Sunday. I bought the intake sensor for $42. It took me about 15 minutes to take the old one out and put in the new one. As soon as I started the car, the check engine light was gone.
#250
DSeese - ROCKIN!!! Good job.
Now I am almost over a nasty nasty cold, it's about time I got to swapping out that bad MAP sensor ($55 at Autozone) - the new one is still just sitting here.
Now I am almost over a nasty nasty cold, it's about time I got to swapping out that bad MAP sensor ($55 at Autozone) - the new one is still just sitting here.