Fuel line follies!
#41
just got done it to day 5 days of work had the HHR since new July 2006 I think they call her Spring Special Tow it behind my Motorhome four wheels down. Just want to say thanks again to Oldblue
with out your help would not have gotten it done BIG SHOUT OUT TO YOU
Last edited by Oldblue; 11-02-2019 at 07:42 AM. Reason: Housekeeping
#44
I found this thread to be quite useful and thought I would make some contributions. I wasn't leaking yet but decided to tackle it before it became an emergency. I got the half length fuel and EVAP kit from the Ebay seller gastankman.
A few notes:
1. Since there was a section where the nylon was close to the exhaust but was previously uncovered, I added some additional 1" heat shield sleeve made by DEI: https://www.designengineering.com/va...l-line-sleeve/ or
3. If you have an SS you may find that even with pulling the fuel pump relay and fuse, the cam driven HPFP keeps the engine running until you break the seal by opening the gas cap.
Most of the clips have been covered here or in the linked thread, but i thought i would toss in some pics of the other ones. The plastic skid plate thing is not connected to the car for reference, only connected to the four lines. There are three clasped sections and this shows where the snap fits are on each section:
There were two of these style clips in the back, you can see where the snap fit is... I put a flat head pressed up against the top of the opening then pushed the retainer down:
This one has been covered on the EVAP line but i figured i would point out how you want to press it since i took it apart. You can see that the green plastic insert actually has an integrated spring which you want to press down:
The fuel line one was an absolute pain and i simply could not get it opened up... sadly i wasted a lot of time on that one and ultimately had to cut it off (thankfully my kit had a replacement). It wasn't until i destroyed it in my garage that i realized why... It was full of dirt and grit at the bottom where the spring portion would have pressed down. Much more so than the EVAP line, must be proximity to the tire or orientation that makes this one more prone to that. It was never gonna come apart without destroying it:
Anyway, hope this can help someone as this thread helped me.
A few notes:
1. Since there was a section where the nylon was close to the exhaust but was previously uncovered, I added some additional 1" heat shield sleeve made by DEI: https://www.designengineering.com/va...l-line-sleeve/ or
https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engineering-010672-Sleeve-Length/dp/B07QR4XRPX/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=10672&qid=1589423648&s=automotive&sr=1-1
2. My kit used compression fittings to join the nylon to steel. The instructions didn't give good explanation of how tight to make these things (nor did the seller when asked directly) but i found a reference that i ultimately used ( http://ken-co.com/fmsi/catalog/L-2007-10-11.pdf ). The fittings that I got with the kit appeared to be the same style, captive sleeve. I marked the nuts and tightened the suggested turns after hand tight (bottom right corner of page 10 in the linked PDF, 3/4 or 1-1/2 for nylon and steel respectively). Holding good so far, but i feel like i will have to monitor when it gets cold and i get paranoid about the nylon shrinking. Another note, i would tighten the nylon side first then steel so that it doesn't twist and kink the nylon tube in a weird way.3. If you have an SS you may find that even with pulling the fuel pump relay and fuse, the cam driven HPFP keeps the engine running until you break the seal by opening the gas cap.
Most of the clips have been covered here or in the linked thread, but i thought i would toss in some pics of the other ones. The plastic skid plate thing is not connected to the car for reference, only connected to the four lines. There are three clasped sections and this shows where the snap fits are on each section:
There were two of these style clips in the back, you can see where the snap fit is... I put a flat head pressed up against the top of the opening then pushed the retainer down:
This one has been covered on the EVAP line but i figured i would point out how you want to press it since i took it apart. You can see that the green plastic insert actually has an integrated spring which you want to press down:
The fuel line one was an absolute pain and i simply could not get it opened up... sadly i wasted a lot of time on that one and ultimately had to cut it off (thankfully my kit had a replacement). It wasn't until i destroyed it in my garage that i realized why... It was full of dirt and grit at the bottom where the spring portion would have pressed down. Much more so than the EVAP line, must be proximity to the tire or orientation that makes this one more prone to that. It was never gonna come apart without destroying it:
Anyway, hope this can help someone as this thread helped me.
#47
I’ll add that as I looked into using the nylon tube supports the concern crossed my mind that it would step down the ID of the fuel line and add restriction. Whether that would actually be a problem or not, I wasn’t sure. But I figured some high HP SS models could potentially see issues?
Last edited by amarv12; 05-14-2020 at 10:22 AM.
#49
[QUOTE=amarv12;892947]I’ll add that as I looked into using the nylon tube supports the concern crossed my mind that it would step down the ID of the fuel line and add restriction. Whether that would actually be a problem or not, I wasn’t sure./QUOTE]
The ID is very minimal, there really isn't a flow problem with it.
From your description I thought you were installing a cut end of tubing and using a ferrule coupling as a union joint.
Have done this type of repair many times on air and fuel lines with no problems.
Air line in a over the road truck for the air system can be 120 psi also.
The ID is very minimal, there really isn't a flow problem with it.
From your description I thought you were installing a cut end of tubing and using a ferrule coupling as a union joint.
Have done this type of repair many times on air and fuel lines with no problems.
Air line in a over the road truck for the air system can be 120 psi also.