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How to Convert 2006 Dimmer to Turn On Dome light

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Old 04-27-2007 | 11:22 AM
  #21  
Black Rose's Avatar
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Joined: 08-17-2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Once again Steve, great how-to.

Thanks for the explanation of which BCM connector you selected to use and what would and would not happen when the dome light is turned on.

Is this how the 07s are wired?
Old 04-27-2007 | 06:59 PM
  #22  
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From: Maryland Heights, MO
Originally Posted by fastsuv
The next how-to will be converting the outside mirrors to heated mirrors. I have all the parts here (heater elements and replacement glass pieces). It will be wired to operate whenever the rear defroster is on (like my other GM vehicles). Since winter is over (hopefully) I won't need heated mirrors until next winter, so the priority is low on my list right now. Some time over the summer I will do the conversion and will post a similar how-to for that.

Steve
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Old 04-27-2007 | 10:25 PM
  #23  
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From: Parkland (Tacoma), WA
Originally Posted by fastsuv
OOps! forgot to answer crazybob's question. No, the car doesn't think that the door is open when I turn on the dome light. I specifically picked the BCM connection that wouldn't do that. The normal way for the dome light to come on is when the door switches indicate a door is open. The door switches are inputs to the BCM, which then grounds terminal A10 on the BCM to turn on the dome lights. Had I wired the dimmer switch to a door switch input on the BCM, then there would be a "door open" indication on the DIC. The way I wired the dimmers switch, it manually grounds the dome lights to turn them on. The BCM actually never knows that you have turned them on manually.

Also, the + power circuit for the dome lights is controlled by the BCM, so even if you turn them on manually with the dimmer switch, the battery-saving feature that turns off the interior lights 15min after turning off the ignition should still work.

Steve
Sounds good. I would probably recommend to diode isolate this connection, though. I'm not sure it's the best idea to send a ground INTO the BCM although it will probably be fine. It's probably internally isolated, but who knows. Cheap insurance using a diode...
Old 04-29-2007 | 03:02 PM
  #24  
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From: Fresno, ca
Hey crazybob, where would the diode go? and what diode would you recommend and where to get it? Thank you
Old 04-29-2007 | 10:08 PM
  #25  
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From: Parkland (Tacoma), WA
Originally Posted by larryv
Hey crazybob, where would the diode go? and what diode would you recommend and where to get it? Thank you
Just go to Radio Shack and get a 1A (Probably overkill) diode. Cut the wire (A10) going to the BCM. Place the diode inline with the stripe pointing away from the BCM. On the Stripe side of the diode, also connect the wire from the new switch that you just added. You can use crimp connectors for this but I recommend solder. Tape or shrink tube all connections. Maybe this diagram will help. The dots indicate where the connections are made.
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Old 04-30-2007 | 08:18 AM
  #26  
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From: lockport,ny
Crazybob:

In the diode configuration that you show in the picture, wouldn't that prevent the BCM from grounding the line, therefore the lights would cease to be under ECM control? For normal BCM control the current flows thru the dome lights and into the BCM, which grounds the line to complete the path.

I agree that some isolation would be a good idea. Trying to figure out what to do without disrupting normal operation is the key.

Since my additional connection is only to ground, voltage could never be applied externally to the BCM pin. Therefore the only consideration seems to be that the BCM could have some voltage on the pin when it's not turning the dome lights on and if you ground it externally, there could be some current flow which could damage the BCM. In that case, the diode should be turned the other way, which would allow current flow into the pin (so the BCM could turn on the dome lights) but prevent flow out of the pin into the new external ground.

What is your opinion on my comments? I'm writing this early in the morning, so maybe the coffee hasn't taken effect yet.

Steve
Old 04-30-2007 | 07:18 PM
  #27  
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From: Fresno, ca
Damn? I will just buy a Flashlight! J/K. Crazybob and Steve, you guys are great, i will just keep reading the post. Thanks
Old 05-01-2007 | 12:01 AM
  #28  
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From: Parkland (Tacoma), WA
Originally Posted by fastsuv
Crazybob:

In the diode configuration that you show in the picture, wouldn't that prevent the BCM from grounding the line, therefore the lights would cease to be under ECM control? For normal BCM control the current flows thru the dome lights and into the BCM, which grounds the line to complete the path.

I agree that some isolation would be a good idea. Trying to figure out what to do without disrupting normal operation is the key.

Since my additional connection is only to ground, voltage could never be applied externally to the BCM pin. Therefore the only consideration seems to be that the BCM could have some voltage on the pin when it's not turning the dome lights on and if you ground it externally, there could be some current flow which could damage the BCM. In that case, the diode should be turned the other way, which would allow current flow into the pin (so the BCM could turn on the dome lights) but prevent flow out of the pin into the new external ground.

What is your opinion on my comments? I'm writing this early in the morning, so maybe the coffee hasn't taken effect yet.

Steve
The way I read the original post is that the wire is the ground INPUT to the BCM which in turn turns on the dome lamp. If instead, the wire is the one that goes directly to the domelamp and the wire is the OUTPUT of the BCM then you are correct the diode would simply need to be reversed. I won't be getting around to this mod anytime soon to verify if this is a ground IN or OUT wire, so if someone else can try this and report back, that would be great!

Never assume that because a wire is "just for ground" that it's not as dangerous as a power wire in terms of back-feeding damaging something. I learned this the hard way on a Subaru Legacy one time when I installed an alarm in it. I popped a $200 computer whose sole job was to turn on the freakin' domelight! All because I didn't use an isolation diode.
Old 05-07-2007 | 11:50 AM
  #29  
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Joined: 05-26-2006
Posts: 9
From: Illinois
Terminal part numbers

Hey everyone. Just to let you know, your local gm dealer should have these terminals. They are in the terminal repair kit that we all get ( I work for a chevy dealer). The part number is 12040511 as posted earlier. Tell your parts guy that they are in tray number 3 of the Delphi automotive kit. I spent the a whole month organizing these at my dealership, so I knew where they where at. This is what GM calls an "Essential" tool, so all gm shops are required to have them. If they try and tell you they don't have this kit, it's probably because they haven't organized it yet. Trust me, it's a giant pain in the backside.
Old 05-07-2007 | 01:27 PM
  #30  
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From: Maryland Heights, MO
Originally Posted by rodneyd218
Hey everyone. Just to let you know, your local gm dealer should have these terminals. They are in the terminal repair kit that we all get ( I work for a chevy dealer). The part number is 12040511 as posted earlier. Tell your parts guy that they are in tray number 3 of the Delphi automotive kit. I spent the a whole month organizing these at my dealership, so I knew where they where at. This is what GM calls an "Essential" tool, so all gm shops are required to have them. If they try and tell you they don't have this kit, it's probably because they haven't organized it yet. Trust me, it's a giant pain in the backside.
Thanks!



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