Is your "wooly worm" (fresh air intake hose) in desperate need of replacement? Don't feel like spending $60 - $80 on a replacement that will just do the same exact thing in a couple more years?

I did an oil change & changed air filter at same time 2 weekends ago. During this, I found out that my intake hose was broken in 4 different places I wasn't about to spend $60 + shipping for a cloth hose

So I didn't, & you don't need to either! All you need is a little time, a few simple tools, &:
> one piece 3" x 8ft semi-rigid aluminum flex duct - I paid $10 @ Lowes - Home Depot also carries it (long enough for 4 intake hoses when fully stretched out)
> one Spectre 3" Duct Mounting Plate - I paid $7 @ Advance Auto
> two 2.5" - 3.5" worm drive hose clamps - I already had - NOTE you might want to use stainless steel clamps if you live a few miles or less from Pacific or Atlantic coast line.

NOTE: I did not use the elbow because it wouldn't fit where I needed it.

Most difficult part of this whole process: cutting the duct, followed by shaping the duct. For cutting the duct, I used a carbide toothed wood cutting blade on my 12" compound mitre saw for best possible straight cut without distorting the nice round shape of the duct. Can also be cut with a razor knife, or 32 tooth per inch hacksaw blade if done carefully.

1> Remove airbox, then remove old intake hose

2> Pull the airbox connector off of the old hose, then set hose asside for now.


Unfortunately, the "wooly worm" has a 2 1/2" inside diameter vs the 3"inside diameter of the aluminum semi-rigid duct, so you won't be able to use both rubber ends of the worm to install the duct.

3> Using a razor knife, carefully cut off the straight part of the rubber connector where it attaches to the airbox. This will be your adapter for the 3" ducting.


After you've cut off your new adapter, insert it into the end of the hose that will connect to the airbox. It's a very tight fit, & I found it easiest to fold the rubber piece in half & insert it into the duct. It's possible to rip the duct if you do not fold it & aren't patient.... After it's inside the duct, gently move it around till it's roughly straight inside the duct.


Take your duct mounting plate & place the bottom corner of it onto the plastic push pin sticking through the sidewall at the bottom of the intake hole. Then using a silver or gold sharpie, mark through the two holes up top for drilling into the sidewall. Don't worry, there's nothing behind there to drill through as long as you take it slow & easy.


NOTE: a right angled drill & 1/8" or 3/16" center drill bit make quick work of this part! Then just attach the mounting plate with screws or nuts & bolts.


NOTE 2: for an alternative mounting, use a green scrub pad to scuff up the paint around the hole, then use a silicone adhesive to adhere the mounting plate in place.

Next, using the old intake hose as a guide, carefully bend & shape the aluminum duct into a rough approximation of the old hose shape.

Attach the aluminum duct to the mounting plate using one of the hose clamps, alligning it so that the other end of the duct is close to the intake hole on the airbox.


Slide second clamp over duct, attach duct to airbox intake, & tighten clamp. (personal note, I washed the "adapter" with Dawn prior to inserting it in duct. I also used coconut oil to lubricate the outside of the airbox inlet to make sure the adapter doesn't just get pushed further into the duct. Any plant or natural based oil will work, but don't use any petroleum based lubricants which can degrade the petroleum based plastic & rubber of the airbox & airbox connector.


Finally, push your airbox down onto the hold down points & reconnect your MAF sensor connector. Start her up & make sure she runs fine!


Don't over tighten the hose clamps, they should be hand tight just to the point of starting to feel resistance to more tightening.

Theortically, this upgrade should last decades as long as you're not overly rough with it when changing the air filter!!!

 

Nice write up, however you can use the wooley worm rubber ends!

 

Not directly, there's about a 1/2" diameter difference between them & the Duct.

Yes, I could have left part of the 'worm' attached to the ends to fill in the diameter difference.... but diameter difference is not the only reason I didn't go that route. Part that goes into the duct is to soft to support clamping without using something like a piece of PVC pipe as a stiffener, or without gluing the end pieces into the aluminum duct, neither of which are acceptable options IMO.

 

I used a half of a 2" pvc pipe connector to support the clamp