So I did the rear shock replacement last week, but unforseen Trojan/worm evil thingy's have kept me from uploading my pics at home until late last night. Total time for replacing the rears is <45min from the time I pulled the tools out until the time I put them up. Very simple!

Things you'll need:
jack, stands, your favorite object persuader (rubber mallet), 18mm socket, 21mm socket, 2 new shocks.

Jack up the car, secure on jack stands and take wheels off...do we need pics for this

Next, I started with the bottom bolt (21mm)
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Next, take out the top bolt (18mm)
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It should come out fairly easily, but might take a little bit of pulling. Below is a pic of what the top hole/bracket looks like once the shock is removed
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Per the advice of some members here, I intalled the shock (with the help of said persuader), secured the top bolt and left the strap on the new KYB
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Next, cut the strap. I was fully expecting it to pop quickly, but it released nice and slow At this point, it's up to you on how you'd like to get the bottom bolt hole to line up with the assembly. I chose to pull it up with my hand while threading it with my other hand. Could use the jack but it really doesn't require that much force.

Thread the new bolt into the bottom and viola! You're done! Put the wheel on and lower the car. 15 min/side.
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Hope this helps! It was fun taking the pics and making notes to be able to post here.

 

ugh...I need to paint my drums!

 

I take it you replaced the stock rear shocks with KYB due to the original shock wearing out after 4 years? I presume you were NOT meaning to change the suspension's characteristics, such as to lower it? Does the car ride the same as before? I read on other threads that KYB is an appropriate replacement part for the FE3 suspension on the 2LT. You have the 1LT with the softer FE1 - still the same ride? How much do shocks (versus tires or springs) affect this?

 

The car rides great. I wanted to keep the same (stock) characteristics and do not intend to lower it. I found those on partstrain.com, both shipped for $57 as stock replacements. The pics are of the drivers side shock...the passenger side was CAKED with the internal shock oil. That was the reasoning for replacing it. It rode just fine before, but I figured I'd go ahead an replace it before it got worse and caused any damage. Doesn't seem to be any stiffer than before, but I have noticed that there is LESS road noise/rattles since replacement.

I chose the KYB's b/c my choices were limited to Monroe, KYB or dealer OEM. I'm sure I could've found more, but wanted to keep the prices lower. The dealer wanted $89/shock, so it was KYB or Monroe. Per suggestions of some on this site, I went KYB. Hope that answers your question :)

 

yes

 

Yes, what?

I've since changed my mind and ended up lowering it. Still rides pretty good. Little bouncy on the SS/SC cobalt springs. Still very quiet and the price was right.

 

Nice how to. Thanks

 

Nice write up pics help a lot,is there a writeup on replaceing front struts with the quickstut? Thanks

 

this should help - https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-tutorial-library-21/spring-install-dial-up-enter-your-own-risk-986/

 

Thanks for the link Just one question do I need to mark anything on the spindle before removeing the strut for front alginment purpose's. Thanks again