Rear Shock How-to
#11
Let see you unbolt the old ones and then bolt on the new ones. Let me write this down.
Just kidding. I do wish they all were like this and pretty easy to get to. I used to hate the old cars with the two small little bolts that held the top of the shock that were always rusted up. Man those were always a pain.
Just kidding. I do wish they all were like this and pretty easy to get to. I used to hate the old cars with the two small little bolts that held the top of the shock that were always rusted up. Man those were always a pain.
#16
If you have access to a torque wrench, the top bolts should be tightened to 66 foot pounds, and the bottom bolts should be tightened to 92 foot pounds.
If you don't have a torque wrench, get them tight, but not so tight that you risk stripping something.
If you don't have a torque wrench, get them tight, but not so tight that you risk stripping something.
Last edited by Oldblue; 12-07-2017 at 02:07 PM.
#17
If you don't use a torque wrench: Take a standard length 1/2 rachet and tighten by hand as snug as you can. Most people aren't going to get much if any over 100 lbs. by hand. Just use a little less force on the lower bolts.
#18
I found that putting my jack under the trailing end of the arm helped to align the lower bolt. I almost stripped the first bolt because it seemed to start OK, but it was mis-aligned, that was while also replacing the springs, so may not be a common problem.
upper bolt 92 ft/Lb = 1/2 inch drive handle as hard as you can while laying on the floor.
lower bolt 66 ft/lb = 3/8 inch drive handle as hard as you can while laying on the floor.
I have never witnessed a mechanic using a torque wrench on anything besides engines (bearings/heads etc.).
upper bolt 92 ft/Lb = 1/2 inch drive handle as hard as you can while laying on the floor.
lower bolt 66 ft/lb = 3/8 inch drive handle as hard as you can while laying on the floor.
I have never witnessed a mechanic using a torque wrench on anything besides engines (bearings/heads etc.).
#20
Now..if take the old shocks and measure then fully collapsed..then fully extended....the distance from side to side of the mounting bushing and can find your spring rates...go to Speedway motors and order some good shocks that match the dimensions and have the valving of your choice...can also call and they will help out....your on your own for the front
struts...
Doing this can adjust out the bounce in the rear with the stock shocks
struts...
Doing this can adjust out the bounce in the rear with the stock shocks