Great tutorial. Thank you for that. Watching Youtube videos gave me the confidence to do it. Your tutorial gave me the right torque for each bolt that wasn't in any of the videos.

I have not done this job yet but have the Aluminum LCAs ordered from Rock Auto.

One question: I'm not sure if there was conflicting information in this thread regarding alignment or if I misunderstood (probably the latter). When the shop does an alignment on the HHR, do they adjust the caster, camber and toe or just the toe?

 

The only adjustment available on a stock HHR is toe. Some have had an after market kit installed for camber. Caster is determined by the uni-body.

If the car has never been re-aligned it does not need regular alignments. If it was aligned with worn (not necessarily worn out) parts it will need to go in regularly and after parts are replaced.

 

Hell, I have never had the car aligned, and about two months ago replaced the entire steering rack, rod ends and all, and still didn't need an alignment.

 

I am an absolute novice but was able to complete the job in an afternoon on both sides. Repairpal tells me I saved about $500. :)

My lessons learned:
-My most frustrating part was not seating the new ball joint. My most frustrating part was removing and replacing the rear mount. It was difficult to get it in and lined up even with a pry bar. After monkeying with it for a while, I was able to get the first replacement seated. The second side was easier with lessons learned from the first.
-The first side took me about an hour and a half after I had all of the right tools gathered. The second side took forty-five minutes.
-An 18 or 20" extension for your socket makes the frame bolts a breeze. Without it, it would be extremely annoying. I had to borrow this but will be buying one.

All in all, not a terrible job for a novice with these terrific instruction. Thank you again.

 

Glad it worked out for you. It's definitly not what I would call a FUN job.

Thanks for the comments and feedback.

 

I have determined, jack and support both front sides of the frame, then do one sides LCA at a time , then the rear bolts seem easier to thread in, an impact gun winds them in much easier also.
And for me it’s effortless, Dan does all the grunt work! I better treat him to a poutine, and a double cheese burger!

 

I have a 42" persuader bar that made 180 degrees no sweat.

I found that removing the 3 nuts holding the struts to the strut towers made life easier getting things lined up.

 

Moved from a classified ad:

Found this, 55mm he says purchased from dealer, but he later gives a Dorman part number, which Amazon says fits(not FE5). https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...e4/#post737963

 

OK just read your post RJ, but here's the question.
Why does it show a different P/N for FE5 vs the other suspensions?
Why would GM make two different LCA rear bushings?
Installing a MOOG problem solver bushing is only one P/N that works for all suspensions.
Yes it's only for Cobalt SS but you know it works in the HHR.
I could be wrong.

 

It's not just the rear bushing, it's the complete control arms. I haven't seen FE5 specific bushings.