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Spent a few hours, replaced the cup and seal for the passenger side transmission output shaft, kinda easy really. I fabbed a seal install tool from 3 feet of 1 1/2 inch pvc plumbing pipe and a connector, the cup went on over the cir clip on the stub shaft and I tapped that into place with a 6 point deep socket 1 1/16 thin wall.
I jacked up the passenger side and placed a jack stand near the rear LCA bolt, that leans the car to the drivers side so, no transmission fluid gushed out! I used long nose small vide grip pliers to grab the old cup and wiggle it loose , the outside of the barrel was scored pretty bad. New motto, if the Alex seal is leaking change the seal and the cup! The seal lasted from Oct 12,2021.
I went for a test drive, picked up a litre of transmission fluid Dextron VI it took 4/10 of a litre .
Double checked axle nut torque 155 ft/lbs , lug nuts 100 ft/lbs and strut bolts 85 ft/lb brake caliper bracket bolts 85 ft/lbs and caliper bolts 24 ft/lbs
Ok, dripping ( more like gushing!) so, I ordered another seal and cup kit this time the SKF 1648 seal kit
last week I installed the National 5693 kit.
right away I noticed the SKF seal had a film of sealant around the metal ring , the seal surface was preluded with white lithium grease and the price was much better.
So I installed the outer seal first then slid the cup onto the stub shaft (still in the transmission) and seated it with a 1 1/16 12 point deep well thin wall socket.
I believe the leak was my fault, I recall installing the cup first and then tried to slide on the outer seal, this may have damaged the seal by forcing the lip to flip over the cup.
I double check fluid level. Test drive this afternoon!
I managed to remove the stub shaft, cleaned the seal area of the housing, installed the outer seal with a coat of Permatex Automatic transmission RTV , I installed the stub shaft into the cv axle , then installed the cup seal with some RTV on the inner part that contacts the stub shaft, a little white lithium grease on the seal and reinstalled the axle and stub shaft assembled.
I splurged for a new axle nut, torqued all fasteners to spec, I’m going to let it sit for tonight, test drive it tomorrow and check the transmission fluid level, fingers crossed this does the trick!
that outer seal goes in real easy when the stub shaft isn’t in the way!
I also spotted an oil leak from the gasket at the water pump access cover, cleaned and RTV sealed.
Today , went out started the BlackSwan and rolled it back in the driveway 5 feet, got out and the drip is still there! Exploratory investigation into this tomorrow or Wednesday!
I think I see the oil leak is from the plug that screws into the oil pump housing at the oil pressure relief plunger. The plastic seal is cracked. Thankfully the cv axle seal area is dry!!
Anybody had one of these apart before? Can I just remove the plug clean and put Teflon tape on the threads put in a new nylon washer and that’s it? Or is the relief spring to strong and I have to remove the front cover for this repair?
I found a how to on YouTube
Ok, the old internet video showed the washer was nylon , but it’s an aluminium crush washer.
I jacked up the right front and placed a jack stand, removed the wheel and could see the plug just above the cv axle and just showing behind the inner splash shield. I got at the plug without removing the shield.
I got the plug out with a 10 mm Allen wrench, the spring isn’t under a lot of pressure and there wasn’t much oil .
I cleaned the washer and made sure it was wasn’t corroded, wrapped Teflon tape around the threads a few times, I think 3 or 4 . Then pushed the plunger back up and then the spring, followed by the cap, I could push up with my left hand and turn the plug to thread it into the housing with my right hand , then tightened it up with the Allen wrench.
I put the tire back on, removed the jack stand and lowered the jack.
total time about 15 minutes.
I checked the engine oil level , right at the full line.
Winter tires day! New front brake rotors and brake pads, adjusted the rear drums and swapped out the front grille.
These Rotors have approximately 80,000 miles on them, getting crusty in the vanes See the rust scales , and the pads have another 45,000 miles , so they will get replaced also Brand new coated rotors to prevent rust , I torqued the caliper bracket bolts to 85 ft/lb and the caliper bolts to the sliders at 24 ft/lb . I made sure to pump the brake pedal several times to seat the pads to the rotors as I had retracted the caliper piston in so the new pads fit into the caliper. And the chrome grille with the hot rod red bars ! I missed the original look I was going for !
There’s a ring of rust around them and to machine them, they would be undersize. They lasted 3 years , plus there’s a ton of rust in between the discs causing a balance problem
05-24-2022, 03:14 PM
