I'd love to buy an old truck that's still in good drivable condition. We can do minor work / replacements / paint jobs, but can't straighten metal, pull engines ourselves, and particularly, we can't spot a good buy.

I'd like some general advice or maybe to be directed to some websites for this kind of advice.

Do you think people would lie in ads on such important claims as straight frame, no rust, very little rust, driveable, daily driver.

Do you think restoration to original condition is preferable to hot rodding it up? Which is more expensive to attempt?

If we're not mechanics and don't have a shop, do you think this is just a huge money pit?

Would you pay to have an old truck inspected before you buy it?

 

I just went through this myself. Here is the best question to ask: If I flew out/came over/took a cab to your place with the cash, can I expect to drive it home. The farther you live from the location of the vehicle the better this question is, because they know damn well they'll have to answer it honestly if they want the cash and don't want to raise the ire of someone who spent a bunch of money to come over and take the vehicle home. Most folks who are motivated to sell the vehicle don't cover things up because they know as soon as you show up to look over the vehicle they'll be screwed. If folks don't include things like the straight frame, levels of rust on body/frame, etc, ASK. Make yourself a checklist of questions and write them down so you don't forget to ask the important questions. You do live in CA though, so it certainly should be easier to find a vehicle that hasn't been tortured by weather and should be in reasonable condition.

Any vehicle that old is going to be a money pit. Just the breaks there. And it won't matter if you go stock/custom/etc on an older vehicle. As for doing original condition restoration, or going hot rod custom, it's almost always a wash and comes out even if you do it right no matter which direction you go.

 

Very few 50+ year old vehicles can be driven safely cross-country without some major modifications and rebuilds. A mid-50's truck, regardless of make, isn't going to be a very comfortable ride, either, until you graft a car subframe under the front end and modify the rear.

If you find a good local truck, use common sense. Take a magnet along with you and use it to find potential Bondo zones. If it's had a subframe graft, who did it? Does it drive straight down the road? Does the fuel tank or lines leak?

Also, just about any vehicle that old is going to need some major bodywork if you want a clean, modern paintjob. That means losing all the lead and replacing it with either Bondo or bronze filler that's compatible with modern paints. That's a pro job just to find and get the lead out.

 

I've been looking at 50+ year old cars and trucks too, but i don't want something that i can drive home, i want to find a cab here and a frame there and see if i can put together a rat for less than 3,000. I already have the drive train, i just need a carb and manifold b/c the motor is fuel injected as it sits now.

 

You got skills, guy!

 

DaJOKER and HHR_CRAFTY - I want to thank you for taking the time to answer and offer your advice. The things you itemized for me and the basic questions are just what I need.

I don't want to rush it, but I think there might be a truck somewhere out there for me.

Please, if you think of anything else, post it here. Also, I'll update with questions or whatever.

 

Buying a used car/truck is tricky enough. Buying a 50 year old truck is harder. Most that buy them switch a lot out, like front ends to get better brakes and such. If you want to buy somthing like this, you need to find someone to help you look at it. Have a mechanic look at it and a body man. Someone that can look at welds and see if they look good. So many variables with old trucks. Money pit, of course. Time killer, definately. Worth it in the end. . Don't trust any seller about the condition. Most states buying a used vehicle is "as is" unless you can prove the seller did know of a problem. Then, well it's still hard..

There are options, buy one done and pay $$$ for it and it could still die a day later. Or spend at $50K+ and head to SC for one of these:



They even have a 3/36 warranty. But not cheap......