Okay, even though I don't have the HHR anymore, and all that, I thought I'd share my experience with coating my garage floor with Rustoleum's Garage Floor Coating, which is a two part water based epoxy. I'm posting it here because as a car forum, and a forum I still enjoy visiting even though I'm a former owner, I figured there may be some interest by members considering doing the same with their garage floor.

As a preface, let me say that I've been meaning to do the job for about a year and half, but kept putting it off due to the hassle of removing virtually EVERYTHING from our garage in order to completely empty it for the project.

Well, I almost put it off too long again this year-- you need the air temp to be above 60 F during the application and the concrete temp to be above 55 the whole time. In mid autumn as we are, the concrete temp was not a problem yet, but night time temps have been dropping below 50 regularly. However our garage is ehated, so no biggie there, just close the overhead door which the water based product cdoes not out-gas volatile fumes so no prob. They make an industrial grade product that is solvent based and does out-gas volatile fumes such that pilot lights and direct spark furnace ignitions must be disabled during application and drying time. A concern if you have furnace and water heater in garage as we do.

On the the prep. I prepped the floor Thursday the 16th. Each kit covers approx 250 sq ft so I had to buy two, and each kit contains a packet of acid etch you mix w/ two gal water-- Citric Acid not Muriatic. The directions strictly forbid use of Muriatic acid for etch prep. I bought for $6 a bottle of their heavy duty degreaser (optional but recommended). After thoroughly sweeping out the empty floor, I hit various spots with the degreaser and scrubbed, rinsed scrubbed rinsed, etc. Then I went over the entire floor with the rest of the degreaser cut with some water. Rinsed thoroughly. Next mized up the etch. Now began the serious scrubbing and rinsing. I used a hard bristle deck scrub brush on a 5' pole handle. Worked well. The whole prep from degrease to final rinse of the final etch passes took about 4 and half hours. I may have went a little overboard, but they say prep is the key to the coating's long term performance.

That evening I attached a garbage bag to the floor taped all sides, to use as a moisture check the next day.

Next day, no moisture on the bag or under it-- meaning a green light to begin the coating process.

This particular type of epoxy requires an induction time-- after mixing the activator into the tint base and stirring like a madman for 4 or so minutes, you follow a chart on the instructions and let the mixture stand for a period of time depending on the air temp. When time's up you re-stir it thorouhgly and begin. I trimmed out the edges first, doing roughly 10' x 10' sections of floor at a time-- trimmed a section's edges by brush, rolled the coating onto the 10 x 10 section. Continued process to the next section. Mixed 2nd kit, let stand in accordance with the temp chart, trimmed edges, rolled on. Oh, and I scattered the decorative vinyl chips as I rolled.

I needed a helper, but wife @ work, son @ work, and I didn't plan for a helper so as to call up any my buds and bother them on short notice-- the whole project was launched on a whim in the retail store a couple days prior when I saw the kits on sale, took note of the autumn season marching on and weather window for the job being tight and bought the kits on impulse, deadset on getting it done in a few days time and using my days off for it.

The reason I could have used a helper was to trim out the edges while I rolled, thus to keep a wet edge going-- it would have prevented some roll lines I got in a few places.

But all in all it turned out pretty good. Directions specify 12 - 16 hrs for light foot traffic, 24 - 48 hrs to begin moving heavy items back onto floor, and 7 days before parking vehicles on it.

It still felt slightly tacky @ 12 hrs, (finished @ 1pm, checked @ 1am). Next morning it was not longer tacky-- walked it in sock feet without issue. For good measure, waited until that Sunday after 1pm (48+ hrs) before moving stuff back into garage. We've been parking on it for awhile now, so far so good... we waited the specified 7 days.

Here's some pics:



Before




After

 

Makes for a nice job.

http://s228.photobucket.com/albums/e...t=DSCF0017.jpg

 

I did mine 1 year ago--when I "first" wanted a HHR.. My house is 35 yrs old and the garage floor (2-car oversize) was a mess!! But I also followed instructions--I remember about 5-6 complete cleanings/etchings...

I did it without help--and did get some roll lines and a few light spots--but only I notice..

I am very happy with this product form Rust Oleum: great looks, easy to keep clean, and absolutely NO hot tire pick-up...

 

I'm wondering how its going to hold up to the drip-off of snow-melting products that the county puts all over the roads around here in winter.

 

Sorry, can't help you with that answer. Only the SS and the H-D in the garage and they won't be moved when there is snow or salt on the roads.

 

garage looks good man
i do that stuff for my clients sometimes
it holds up well, and people like it.

 

Looks great Lone Ranger. I too have bought a variation of it and am someday going to do my front patio at the office.

I like the optional "speckles" that you applied. Gives it the "metalflake" look.

 

Helped a friend about 8m ago, Yes alot better with two.
After about 6 weeks he did a burn out & wheely with his lawn tractor his paint held up very well, Wife was not happy with the whole show & marks on floor but it was a good time. Looks cool with two 2 foot long marks going out the door. She's over it now. Say if he wants to do all that work & screw it up...... Still looks good the paint! burn out too

 

LOL, a lawn tractor burn out. Ya don't see that every day

 

I've spilled muriatic acid, thinner, acetone, tolulene and gas on mine without any signs of surface intrusion, so I wouldn't worry about snow melters.