Originally Posted by hyperv6

I would caution on getting a buffer at Harbor unless you know how to use one. Many may want to stick to a orbital if they have not used a regular buffer much. It is something you need to learn with experience and practice. Also on a old car that if you burn through you are not mad or out a repaint.

Also if you use your tools a lot spend the extra money to get a good 6" Porter Cable. The bearings will not go out in it as like many of the cheaper ones.

Originally Posted by jaymz

The item I recommended IS a D/A buffer; you have to be a true moron to mess up with a buffer. It's the hi speed orbital that is easy to burn thru the paint. The Harbor Freight model has gotten some pretty decent reviews. If you want to go for a good one, the Griots Garage is better than the Porter Cable.

Jim

Originally Posted by hyperv6

It is not the product line but the type of product you use as to how gentle.

I have Meguires products that will finely polish to those that will hone though the paint easily.

The key is the selection of product and using the proper grade of product you need for a proper finish.

Also there are a lot of product like Nu-Finish and others that are a one step that really do not repair the finish but mask the flaws. There are many high silicone products that mask only and they do a good job as long as you do not want a long term proper fix.

The key is education of how to properly polish and repair paint is what one needs to do this right. Also important are what are your standards. My standards are as good or better than new. Most do not go that far but that is just me.

The thing is if you do step up your standards and education on what products to use and how to use them properly you will not only have a better looking car but you will also get top value at resale. I have always been able to move my used cars fast and in many cases in hours of putting them up for sale.

The info on many web sites can get jumbled up as with different standards and opinions the true technical knowledge gets lost.

Adams and Meguires both have good information on how to deal and prepare with paint and damage. Also once you learn this it is a easy way to pick up $150 or more for a Saturdays afternoons work.

Originally Posted by postalboy

I don't want to take a chance on burning my paint. I don't intend to need to use a buffer often but I do want something that I can turn down to a low speed and is orbital. Porter Cable seems to be the way to go. I'll watch all the videos I can, get the proper pads' polishes, ect and go afer my scratches. Thanks for all the advice.

Originally Posted by hyperv6

Are you confusing what an Variable Speed Orbital buffer is vs. a rotary buffer?

It does not take a moron to burn through with a rotary buffer. I see it all the time. It is generally someone who has little experience and they get on a edge of corner and burn through easily as it does not have the random orbital motion and can spin at very high speed. This is the one most body shops use to do heavy cutting.

An orbital is much like a DA but generally 6.5 inches and Is made for more for polishing vs heavy cutting buffing with the random motion and variable speed even the least experienced person will not buff through. To burn through you have to pretty well have very thin paint or really work an area to death to do any harm. This is the one most shops and detailers use for finishing work.

Porter Cable, Griots and Meguires are all pretty much the same. At one time Porter made them for one of them. Generally you can get a better buy on the Porter that is most common one you see detailers use. It has a much stronger Roller Bearing set up.

The buffers from Harbor are like most other cheap ones. They are good for the home user or occational user. I have the cheap hand held small grinders from there. I wear it or I toss it because I do not use it often. My Orbital gets a lot of work so I spent the extra money and after 5 years of heavy work it is running fine.

Originally Posted by jaymz

I think we have a difference in terminology. I defer to your use of orbital buffer. In my book, an orbital and a D/A buffer (dual action) are the same thing. And your really DO have to be a moron to mess up your paint with one. I prefer the Griots because it is the most powerful unit out there.

Jim