Maintenance Parts Suggestion
#11
The 2007 listing is for a different manufacturer, out of stock,
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ide+bolt,12016
It’s the same bolt for all years and engine displacement
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ide+bolt,12016
It’s the same bolt for all years and engine displacement
#12
That valve ticking just might be the front timing chain guide , either the top bolt or guide itself.
if you change the tensioner you might as well change the timing chain and the balance shaft chain, and while your at it the water pump. Since you have to remove the thermostat housing and tube , replace those o rings and gaskets.
if you have never drained the coolant, you will have to to , rinse out the heater core and pour in fresh Dexcool 50/50 , it should be changed every 5 years.
Cloyes has a nice kit , water pump, chains guides and tensioners .
if you change the tensioner you might as well change the timing chain and the balance shaft chain, and while your at it the water pump. Since you have to remove the thermostat housing and tube , replace those o rings and gaskets.
if you have never drained the coolant, you will have to to , rinse out the heater core and pour in fresh Dexcool 50/50 , it should be changed every 5 years.
Cloyes has a nice kit , water pump, chains guides and tensioners .
I'm using 10w-40 with 1 quart of lucas oil stabilizer though...
#13
Why not use the manufacturer suggestion. Do you suspect they are out to kill cars? Using 10-40 oil would make for cold lifter noise.
#17
#18
Patient: I think I'd like O+ blood for my next transfusion.
Doctor: But you're AB type.
Patient: I know, but I think I'll run better on O+
Doctor: But that could possible kill you.,
Patient: Ok, then maybe I'll just use O+ some of the time.
Doctor: Smh.
Doctor: But you're AB type.
Patient: I know, but I think I'll run better on O+
Doctor: But that could possible kill you.,
Patient: Ok, then maybe I'll just use O+ some of the time.
Doctor: Smh.
#20
Lol, very true. Hope it didn’t come off as flippant. I’ve been working on cars since I was very young and the one thing I learned was to try to stick to what the manual says for maintenance, both for warranty and mechanical reasons. Nearly every time I strayed from what the manufacturer or a reputable mechanic or aftermarket parts seller recommended I got burned. It may cost a little more but usually OEM or what the manufacturer recommends is best. I once had a 1990 Plymouth Laser with the 7/70 warranty. To honor the warranty they wanted to see every receipt from every oil change I made. Fortunately I kept them all and they were done according to the manufacturer recommendations or I would have been SOL.