Excellent article oldracer!

I've been reading this with great interest Don, after changing out struts twice with the Monroe's I didn't notice or have the "nose high" attitude, very odd.

 

It's not "nose high" now as much as not as much "nose down". Probably, because the old springs were, well, old. After I changed the rear shocks last month I really noticed how squirrelly the front end was. Could also be my bifocals malfunctioning, again.

But when I hit the gas while changing lanes the front end does react differently now, almost feels like rear wheel drive. Lift and push feel, without loosing traction.

The reason I described the camber was I really couldn't remember which was neg and pos, thanks for the clarification oldracer. I am pretty sure that any alignment issues at this point can be assigned to CarMax aligning the front end without checking the parts first. Everything "looks" alright now, just waiting for 10,000 or so more miles till new tires and a good alignment with mostly new parts. Tires are wearing fairly good, but there seems to have been inflation issues in an earlier life (edges slightly more than center).

I am just documenting observations, not having complaints. I do not seem to be having any problems with the car. After I get new tires, I will be in a better position to diagnose my "rumbling" sounds. I have bearings in the larder on standby.

I believe that the 2011 front end, bearings, bushings etc. is actually beefed up compared to the 2008.

 

It did not occur to me to make "before" measurements. Here is the "after" new front struts, new rear shocks.

Front height (center of wheel, ground to wheel well) 27.5 inches
Rear height (same as above) 28.25 inches
Front springs hanging 10.25 inches (both OE and Monroe)
Front springs compressed 7 inches

Adjusted the rear brakes 2 more clicks, lost the big judder some still there.

 

I have never heard the term "judder"?

Shudder....tremble or quiver
Chatter......vibrate quickly, possibly from sticking then slipping.

 

Keep in mind if you have pad material build up on your rotors that often the early miles do not judder and it will pick up as the temperatures of the brakes increase with the miles.

I have driven examples with no judder and after 5-7 miles the judder comes back as the temp are up.

 

Yes.
Not necessarily warped rotors, but often that is the blame. No pedal pulsation, but steering wheel and car "judders".

Most times it is actually related to the rear brakes, in one form or another, IMHO.

 

It could be any brake front or rear left or right.

 

Well, I drove to the drugstore and parked in a space where I always hit the stop block with the chin spoiler. Still hits, so I guess it's just my magination about the height difference. Smokey Robinson again.

Adjusting the rears up did wonders for the judder, even though I thought I had done them a couple of weeks ago.

 

I just installed new struts and shocks on my panel, kept the same springs, and the front is 3/4" higher, I think the fe3's I had on there sagging a little. While we had the rears off, we tightened up the rear brakes, no more judder, for a while...

BTW. YYZV1's with KYB struts, wow I finally found the right combination, rides great.

 

that's why I adjust the rears, every 5,000 miles, it does address the "judders" at first I thought it was the intermediate shaft or the steering column but after I adjusted the brakes as recommended in another post on the site. problem solved.