PulpFriction

I wouldn't plan bushing replacement based upon symptoms. Would want to see some evidence they're bad.

Yer gonna need to get under there.

Rocket Dawg

I should be able to see a crack in the rubber somewhere? Not sure how I could check for looseness unless I duplicate the aggressive backing up, stop and jack it up right there and see if I can pry it backwards. thanks

I'll try and get under it this afternoon if time permits. Is there anything else that could cause a clunk back there? It's not overly loud.

Oldblue

Retorque the shock bolts!!
66 ft lbs upper bolt , it’s an 18mm
92 ft lbs bottom bolt , it’s a 21mm

PulpFriction

While you're at it, check the torque on the lug bolts. Long shot, but easy.

Oldblue

Lug nuts are 100 ft lbs

Rocket Dawg

I wrote the lug nut torque on the drivers door jamb (100 lbs) and change the tires twice a year. summer/ winter tires and wheels. It will get looked at this afternoon. Shocks are tight but I will check that too. We put new shocks on my kids car and he didnt tighten them enough, what a rattling noise that made on every bump. This noise is quite different that a loose shock.

Oldblue

Process of elimination, do the easy inexpensive things first.

Rocket Dawg

Looked it over and watched the You Tube video.

Rocket Dawg

Looked it over and watched the You Tube video. The bushings are cracked for sure. Dropped it off at my mechanics new place of business and that didn't go very well. He is a very good guy and smart. He was bought out by a larger company and he works for them now.. He didnt work on my car. After 9 days I get a call telling me my new rear shocks leak oil. I said did you drive it in reverse and hear the clunk? The said "no, do you want new shocks?" I said no, ( I can replace shocks in 10 minutes) So I paid them for a 1/2 hour of there time. Looks like I have to find a new mechanic. I can change the bushings myself, but I really dont want to. I have most the tools to do the job but I have no desire to work under it. It would be easier if the car was on a lift, which I dont own.. I'm not a spring chicken anymore. So I'm in search of a new garage/mechanic. Sucks when you loose a reliable source.

donbrew

No need to get under the car. I did it in my 60's sitting on my mechanic's stool.
You only need jack stands and a torque wrench and a good breaker bar (a 3/4" torque wrench should work). The only trick is 180 degrees after 74 lb.ft. for the big bolt and the steering knuckle to BJ is 37 lb.ft. then back oo3/4 turn then 37 lb.ft. + 30 degrees. Front LCA bushing bolts are 41 lb.ft. don't lose the spacers.
Flat rate for both sides is 1.8 hours.
I guarantee no mechanic in any shop will ever use a torque wrench. I doubt that many own one.

Strange how gas shocks leak oil. Run away as fast as you can.