Maintenance and Upkeep Discussion HHR maintenance tips ranging from oil change intervals to brake pads and everything in between.

replacing sway bar links

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Old 09-10-2011 | 09:55 PM
  #11  
sleeper's Avatar
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Originally Posted by DaGrinch
My thoughts exactly.

I pulled the wheels off the wife's HHR today and found fairly brand new links. Surprised the daylights out of me. Got to checking the sway bar bushings and, holy crap! There's where my noise was coming from. Bushings were old and cracked - must be the originals. Looks like I'll get them replaced.
No battery disconnection necessary for sway bar bushings either..
Old 09-12-2011 | 12:01 PM
  #12  
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And while we're at it....
I guess the difference in the lengths of the links has to do with what type suspension the HHR has? Mine are the 9 7/8" links, but I know there's also the 11+" links. I have the FE3/sport suspension.

"Inquiring minds want to know....."
Old 09-13-2011 | 01:26 AM
  #13  
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Are there any pictures of these components on the car (links/sway bar bushings etc.) for reference?
Old 09-13-2011 | 01:47 AM
  #14  
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Sure is, courtesy of the SEARCH facility at the top of the page (hint hint :) ) - https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...ht=moog&page=2
Old 09-13-2011 | 08:58 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by whopper
Sure is, courtesy of the SEARCH facility at the top of the page (hint hint :) ) - https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...ht=moog&page=2
Thanks! I spent like two hours searching 100 Flex pipe threads for another issue and figured someone in a sway bar thread might show me the light to save some time on this one. Thanks!
Old 09-13-2011 | 01:23 PM
  #16  
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I have my HHR at the dealer for an exhaust repair, I also had them check my front end, as I have been getting some "kerchunks" when going over small bumps. He said my struts are leaking and going bad, and the sway bar bushings and end links (which I told them to check) are on their way out too. I'm concerned that they will just put the same GM parts that went bad back on there and I'll run into problems again down the line. I'm not under warranty for this. I wonder if I'm better off getting aftermarket parts (and get them installed elsewhere) for the front end? Comments? Suggestions?
Old 09-13-2011 | 01:45 PM
  #17  
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It would probably be better in the long run to have a good shop do it with quality parts instead of the dealer.... It may cost less too.
Old 09-13-2011 | 05:57 PM
  #18  
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Replacing the end links just involves removing the front tires and removing/replacing 2 nuts. I bet any shop will charge at least $50 labor for a 15 minute job. Just sayin' if you own a couple of crescent wrenches and a vice-grip......

I have not done the bushings yet, but I can eyeball them. Seems to be 2 fairly easy to reach bolts on each side.

OEM Struts go bad quick. Get estimates, and from what I've heard recently, on this forum avoid the "QuickStrut" option; i.e. pay the extra labor for a new Strut & Mount reuse the old springs (unless the old ones sag). Unless you need an alignment anyway, you should not require one for strut replacement. The only thing that new struts could affect is the camber, and that is not adjustable OEM it is set from the factory by the mounting to the uni-body. You can add after market camber adjustment cheaply, but daily drivers don't need to.
Old 09-13-2011 | 06:34 PM
  #19  
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Are the SS Sway Bar links the same? I looked at mine and they're dry-rotted. (2008 with 25K) Thinking I might do a driveway swap for the MOOG.

JIm
Old 09-13-2011 | 07:54 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by donbrew
Replacing the end links just involves removing the front tires and removing/replacing 2 nuts. I bet any shop will charge at least $50 labor for a 15 minute job. Just sayin' if you own a couple of crescent wrenches and a vice-grip......

I have not done the bushings yet, but I can eyeball them. Seems to be 2 fairly easy to reach bolts on each side.

OEM Struts go bad quick. Get estimates, and from what I've heard recently, on this forum avoid the "QuickStrut" option; i.e. pay the extra labor for a new Strut & Mount reuse the old springs (unless the old ones sag). Unless you need an alignment anyway, you should not require one for strut replacement. The only thing that new struts could affect is the camber, and that is not adjustable OEM it is set from the factory by the mounting to the uni-body. You can add after market camber adjustment cheaply, but daily drivers don't need to.
Good info...I think I might give putting the end links on a go...all I have is the stock jack, so it might take a little while. Are there any tolerances or torque settings or prep or anything else to worry about, or do you just take the wheels off, take the old end links out, slip the new ones in, put the bolts in and tighten normally? What about the sizes? Some are talking about two different sizes being available. I have an '07 1LT 2.2L - what size do I get? Is it the consensus that the greaseable MOOGs are the preferred type for these? Thanks folks.


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