replacing sway bar links
#11
My thoughts exactly.
I pulled the wheels off the wife's HHR today and found fairly brand new links. Surprised the daylights out of me. Got to checking the sway bar bushings and, holy crap! There's where my noise was coming from. Bushings were old and cracked - must be the originals. Looks like I'll get them replaced.
I pulled the wheels off the wife's HHR today and found fairly brand new links. Surprised the daylights out of me. Got to checking the sway bar bushings and, holy crap! There's where my noise was coming from. Bushings were old and cracked - must be the originals. Looks like I'll get them replaced.
#12
And while we're at it....
I guess the difference in the lengths of the links has to do with what type suspension the HHR has? Mine are the 9 7/8" links, but I know there's also the 11+" links. I have the FE3/sport suspension.
"Inquiring minds want to know....."
I guess the difference in the lengths of the links has to do with what type suspension the HHR has? Mine are the 9 7/8" links, but I know there's also the 11+" links. I have the FE3/sport suspension.
"Inquiring minds want to know....."
#14
Sure is, courtesy of the SEARCH facility at the top of the page (hint hint :) ) - https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...ht=moog&page=2
#15
Sure is, courtesy of the SEARCH facility at the top of the page (hint hint :) ) - https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...ht=moog&page=2
#16
I have my HHR at the dealer for an exhaust repair, I also had them check my front end, as I have been getting some "kerchunks" when going over small bumps. He said my struts are leaking and going bad, and the sway bar bushings and end links (which I told them to check) are on their way out too. I'm concerned that they will just put the same GM parts that went bad back on there and I'll run into problems again down the line. I'm not under warranty for this. I wonder if I'm better off getting aftermarket parts (and get them installed elsewhere) for the front end? Comments? Suggestions?
#18
Replacing the end links just involves removing the front tires and removing/replacing 2 nuts. I bet any shop will charge at least $50 labor for a 15 minute job. Just sayin' if you own a couple of crescent wrenches and a vice-grip......
I have not done the bushings yet, but I can eyeball them. Seems to be 2 fairly easy to reach bolts on each side.
OEM Struts go bad quick. Get estimates, and from what I've heard recently, on this forum avoid the "QuickStrut" option; i.e. pay the extra labor for a new Strut & Mount reuse the old springs (unless the old ones sag). Unless you need an alignment anyway, you should not require one for strut replacement. The only thing that new struts could affect is the camber, and that is not adjustable OEM it is set from the factory by the mounting to the uni-body. You can add after market camber adjustment cheaply, but daily drivers don't need to.
I have not done the bushings yet, but I can eyeball them. Seems to be 2 fairly easy to reach bolts on each side.
OEM Struts go bad quick. Get estimates, and from what I've heard recently, on this forum avoid the "QuickStrut" option; i.e. pay the extra labor for a new Strut & Mount reuse the old springs (unless the old ones sag). Unless you need an alignment anyway, you should not require one for strut replacement. The only thing that new struts could affect is the camber, and that is not adjustable OEM it is set from the factory by the mounting to the uni-body. You can add after market camber adjustment cheaply, but daily drivers don't need to.
#20
Replacing the end links just involves removing the front tires and removing/replacing 2 nuts. I bet any shop will charge at least $50 labor for a 15 minute job. Just sayin' if you own a couple of crescent wrenches and a vice-grip......
I have not done the bushings yet, but I can eyeball them. Seems to be 2 fairly easy to reach bolts on each side.
OEM Struts go bad quick. Get estimates, and from what I've heard recently, on this forum avoid the "QuickStrut" option; i.e. pay the extra labor for a new Strut & Mount reuse the old springs (unless the old ones sag). Unless you need an alignment anyway, you should not require one for strut replacement. The only thing that new struts could affect is the camber, and that is not adjustable OEM it is set from the factory by the mounting to the uni-body. You can add after market camber adjustment cheaply, but daily drivers don't need to.
I have not done the bushings yet, but I can eyeball them. Seems to be 2 fairly easy to reach bolts on each side.
OEM Struts go bad quick. Get estimates, and from what I've heard recently, on this forum avoid the "QuickStrut" option; i.e. pay the extra labor for a new Strut & Mount reuse the old springs (unless the old ones sag). Unless you need an alignment anyway, you should not require one for strut replacement. The only thing that new struts could affect is the camber, and that is not adjustable OEM it is set from the factory by the mounting to the uni-body. You can add after market camber adjustment cheaply, but daily drivers don't need to.