For safety's sake, double check the part numbers against a known source, the link below shows the new part number, but also the superseded OEM and Hollander interchanges for the water pump.

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/WaterPumps/...WP00134/680787

Here's the timing chain kit, the same holds true as above for the superseded OEM and Hollander numbers.

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/TimingBelts...34/710186/2006

These folks aren't affiliated with our site, and sometimes they're not the cheapest, but I've used them with no problems and they know their stuff.

 

The shock of my life,...
All this time I thought the engine in my buggy was a 2.4L, it turns out it is actually a 2.2.

I've had the air box off before but never bothered to wipe the dust off the center of the valve cover I guess. It plainly says it is a 2.2 right there.

Anyway, as ya'll know I have been having some problems with my water pump. I ordered one and the special tool to hold the sprocket and chain in the engine while you remove the water pump, and finally Sunday the pump started making bad noises so I asked my younger brother if he might want to put it in for me.

I would have just done it myself but I spent last week in the hospital getting some stints put in my heart so I'm not supposed to be doing much for the next while.

It took from noon to around 6:00 for him to get it all apart and back together.

I am convinced he now wishes he had said no when I asked if he would do the job.

If anyone else decides to do this job at home I highly recommend doing it with the engine out of the car.

There just isn't enough room to do this job in a speedy manner with the engine in the car, the worst thing is you can't see the bolts, you know they are there and sometimes you can feel them but its still darn hard to get to them.

The two longer bolts on the outside of the engine have just enough room between the block and fender that you can barely take them out of the engine once you have the pump loose.

Lining the new pump up with the holes in the sprocket holding tool is a lot more of a challenge than it should be too.

And the way things went I forgot my camera so no pics again.

 

I guess you didn't read the service manual. If you remove the motor mount and jack the engine up an inch or so, things are easier. You need a piece of all thread 1.5 inches long to put in one of the bolt holes in the pump as a guide into the sprocket.

You REALLY want to pull that engine, don't you? That would make your 6 hour job into a 3 day job, that's speedy?

 

There was one bolt with a nut a little over half way on it that seems to be made solid that way that worked for the alignment pin but, the part of the pump where the bolts thread in has a elongated slot between them. Getting the threaded hole on the pump lined up with the hole in the sprocket without being able to see what your doing is pretty challenging.

And yes, when I am convinced that I really needed to replace the timing chain I will remove the engine. {or more likely hire it done}

 

I tried to explain how it works, but it came out sounding stupid. There is an explanation in you Service Manual.

 

No sweat no fret. In the first post where I was talking about pulling the engine it was mainly because the youtube vid I watched was with an engine that probably has never seen a vehicle to be put in.

All clean and totally uncluttered with enough room that a dozen mechanics or techs could gather around it and to what needs done with air wrenches and whatever they might possibly ever need to geterdone.

In the old days when I had my shop I could usually have an engine out of a car in under 2 hours. From watching videos on youtube it looks like it would take the better part of a day to get one out of an HHR.

Since I only have a slab of concrete in front of the one car garage that has three motorcycles and an MGB along with a ton and a half or more of just plain junk and trash so it is mostly just a place for the tool box and of course the tools that are in it.

I still like the idea of removing the engine and have been talking to my younger brother and he agrees that if we had removed the motor mount and tipped the engine a bit it probably would have been easier than the way he did do it,... but it is done now.

I remember when I had my '69 Mustang with the 428 super cobra jet engine in it, to change the rear spark plugs in it you were supposed to remove the motor mounts and jack the engine up and to the side.

Most of the folks that owned those cars with the big block would simply torch a hole in the inner fender skirt to be able to get a socket with an extension on it. This was real bad because the hole would eventually cause the fender well to crack and tear. That was especially bad because the car depended on that being intact since it was a unibody buggy.

Thanks for all the help from every one who helped, stay tuned for the next grizzly adventure.

 

I just replaced my engine a two weeks ago. It took the better part of 8 hours to get it out, primarily because I couldn't see all the transmission bolts and missed two. It only took me three hours to get it back in though. It's amazing how easy things get when you know where everything goes.

The engine is supposed to be removed from the bottom, but I did it through the top. Now that I have done it, it would be much easier to remove the intake or exhaust manifold. Then there is plenty of room to get it out through the top.