Well, I ordered a set of 35w 5000k hi/low and a set of 35w 3500k from DDM tuning. Installation was a breeze but one of the headlights didn't want to work consistently.

Swapped the ballasts around and sure enough, bad ballast from the get go. During the swapping of the ballast, one of the connectors bulled off the bulb wire. I had to de-pin it, resolder, and re-pin it. I also had a ground terminal pull from its crimp as well. During all my troubles, I also noticed one of the bulbs gets stuck on hi beam. Even after removing it to unstick it two times, it would still do it. Decided to yank the whole setup and return it.

While removing it, the primary H13 input de-pinned itself from the hi/low relay. Yes, all three wires.

My fog lights seem to be doing just fine. They are gorgeous.

If ordering from DDM, I would NOT do hi/low bulbs and I would stress test all connections. They rarely answer the phone number listed on their website and I still haven't gotten an email reply from days ago.

I have ordered a set of HID's from retrosolutions to take care of the headlights. I called there 3 times with questions, they promptly answered the phone and were very helpful with answers. They assured me their kits are tested prior to shipment and they stand behind their warranty. I look forward to having a set of headlights to go with the foglights.

So in the end, I'd say avoid DDM and pay a bit more. Go with someone that's gonna at least answer their phone when you have questions.

 

I have a DDM kit. Actually, I have 4 separate ones currently, but have installed 7 total kits. Sometimes you'll get some connectors that fit oddly but I always pull the weather boot off and re-seat it allthewhile adding some dielectric grease to the contacts. I had their Hi/Lo kit on a Cobalt I had. It didn't work effectively with the way the solenoids moved the bulbs in and out-I would attribute that to the reflector housings shape, not the kit.

DDM is getting out of the HID department altogether, last I checked. The latest kit I received didn't even come with an H13 connector. I had to order a set. Kind of upset me but what can you do?

They still honor their lifetime warranties. I'm surprised you acquired a kit so late in the year. They announced they weren't going to be selling them anymore MONTHS ago. I've been out of the loop.

Check out buyhids.com

He is a regular on the CobaltSS.net forum and ALWAYS seems to provide quick feedback. All he requires for a replacement to be sent is a photo of the bad component. He also used to say his HID kits were made in the USA.
I never bought from him before, but I've heard a lot of positive things about him.

His S/N is :mkulrey13

HIDs are lovely.

 

Now that I checked their site, looks like they decided to keep selling them lol. I remember the owner spouting off on Bimmerforums about how he wanted to head into the direction of LED technology, and stop selling HIDs within the year. There was also a banner on DDM Tuning highlighting this,

There is always vvme.com.

I have a VVME kit on my Ducati. Works great.

 

With everything I've heard about retrosolutions I've got high hopes for their kit. We'll see this week when it shows up.

 

I just recieved a DDM 35w hi/lo kit and I am having issues also. They are not firing properly upon startup with the ignition. I think it's something with the automatic headlight system. If I start them before I turn the ignition on they work fine.
Any ideas?

 

Mine were so sporadic. Sometimes I could get them to come on, sometimes I couldn't. I wasn't worth the trouble. If it isn't done right, it isn't on my car. Themz the rules.

 

If you have DRL (Daytime Running Lights), they do not offer enough current. You need to disable the circuit by pulling the DRL fuse or else you are under-powering the ballasts and igniters.

Let me guess. They flicker, sometimes turn on, sometimes they don't light at all, it isn't side dependent. Right?

 

Correct! But the odd thing is that I've already pulled the DRL fuse and relay from the engine compartment. I even bumped up the driver and passenger side fuses by 5amps.

It's weird. When I start the car, the DRL seems to come on anyway. I say this because the driver side is dim, and the right side is not on. Maybe I'm wrong but that's what it seems like. I flip the headlights from Auto to Off, and then back to the On position at the top of the controller and then each side starts to warm up like it should.

 

Try a relay circuit. I had a Cobalt SS that had teh DRL disabled and I don't know WHAT it was but one side, namely the driver's side, would sometimes not illuminate. I would have to flick it on and off to get it to light and stay lit. This was tested with KNOWN GOOD BALLASTS as well as KNOWN GOOD BULBS. I didn't get out the VMM but I'm sure it was a current problem.

 

Ive had mine for 3 years now with NO problems HILO H13 8000k, the running lights stay on Ive never had a bad thing to say, love them now I enjoy driveing at night.