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Second coat of gloss enamal went bad, help :( (grille)

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Old 04-03-2012, 07:06 PM
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Second coat of gloss enamal went bad, help :( (grille)

so I did everything the same way as the hub caps

everything went fine until the second coat of gloss enamel

any ideas?

first coat of enamel

http://postimage.org/gallery/12j0mdku/dfab9560/

second coat

http://postimage.org/gallery/7xw0h7q/daae6601/

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Old 04-03-2012, 07:16 PM
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Too little drying time between coats?
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Old 04-03-2012, 07:41 PM
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Holy crap! The second coat looks like it was paint remover!
Seriously though. Was the second coat from the same can? If not,check the 2 cans. Check for info such as a lot # on the cans. 2 cans may look the same but be from a different batch and not compatible with each other.
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Old 04-03-2012, 07:45 PM
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X2 too little dry time in between coats. you may want to strip and start over
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Old 04-03-2012, 07:47 PM
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How much time passed between coats? Usually there is a time frame to recoat within, if you go past it you should wait the prescribed amount of time.

For example I just checked some paint I have and the directions say that you should recoat within 1 hour or after 24 hours. I have seen similar occurances to yours if the paint dried for 3-4 hours then recoating.

I beleive it has something to do with the off-gassing of the solvents in the paint.
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Old 04-03-2012, 08:10 PM
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ahhh..the curse of the spider...painters nightmare...hate to say..ur screwed..time to start over..looks like rattle can paint??this can be cused by many factors..usually caused by putting on too much paint or contaminants are causing that..mixing plastic primer and rust paint may have had somethin to do with it(not good)plastics are a real pain to paint also..a good sealer primer first will help aviod any problems as well..and ive said it before..adhesion promoter!!...
sand er all down and start over...light coats of paint..dont go for single coverage right off the bat...3 light but wet coats of paint is all you should need..check the label on your paint can..make sure its not laquer..arcrilic enamel is what your after.rust paint is for rust..it has an oil in it to aid in preventing rust returning.if rattle can is your forte..then Krylon is a good way to go as they are formulated to bond to plasic without the aid of promoter...we all learn from mistakes..dont feel bad..ive done this a million times..slow down..patience grasshopper..
1st coat..just dust it..
2nd..light coat but shiny wet
3rd coat should look very wet..
if its one of those days that the paint is drying faster than you can spray...give up..try again in cooler weather
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Old 04-03-2012, 08:51 PM
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I have a couple questions........

You used PLASTIC PRIMER. Did you sand/remove all the metal finish DOWN TO THE PLASTIC?

Why didn't use Rustoleum for Plastic (in white)....if you sanded/removed the metal. I think you have, basically, 2 different products that may not be compatible. You need a Primer/Adhesion promoter for plastic and a paint for plastic......OR a Primer/adhesion promoter for metal and a paint for metal.

I have found, while refinishing many different items, that "rattle cans" are very temperamental about being compatible. MIGHT be your problem.....might not.
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Old 04-03-2012, 09:24 PM
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This is my first post here but have been a lurker a long time. Instead of using normal spray paint I used plasti dip on my grill and it has held strong. Its matte black but you can get the clear coat that makes it gloss black. I took it through the car wash last week end and it didn't peel.
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Old 04-03-2012, 10:50 PM
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the one thing I have noticed after painting a few of these is that the original finish that gm used is sum pretty alien stuff..had way better results if the grille was sanded completely and remove all the original finish before repainting..coat first with a nice samdable/fillable primer for baby butt finish..and dont forget..if ya want to go quality paints..true automotive stuff..base clear type of deal or even single stage paints(all water borne stuff nowadays)..hit up your local auto body supply..in some cases the store will be able to rattle can up the paint for ya to make life easy..not to mention give em the color code from the inside of your glovebox for a closest to perfect color match...good luck with the redo..dont go to rough with the sandpaper..this plastic is soft is will scratch easily..id go at it with some 150 first..by hand..dont use a power sander you will round off the corners of the grille very easily with power sanders..good luck bud...bout a 3 beer job now..
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Old 04-03-2012, 11:28 PM
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Yeah, that's going to require a "Do Over" sorry to say.
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