$600 Control Arm replacement?!
01-29-2014 | 12:25 PM
#12
Joined: 12-10-2009
Posts: 2
From: Oregon
Replaced the control arms, struts and end links for about $100/ea. Simple diy project. It's much easier to replace the entire arm. Comes with all new bushings and ball joint. I ground the rivets off one of the arms but could not press the rivets out of the ball joint. The other bushings on the arms were torn as well.
Installed new readi struts. Don't bother reusing your old spring and bushing. It's faster, easier and safer to buy the whole strut pre assembled. Total cost was around $400. Mechanic wanted $600 just to do the struts.
This whole project started because of the infamous "clunk" and wobble when braking. Keep in mind, this is the wifes' car. I rarely drive it. She brought it to Brake Team where they diagnosed a bad strut and quoted her a discounted price of $600 as if that was a good deal. Of course I freaked out and promised her a new front end for half that cost. After 4 hrs in the driveway, everything was done and the car drives better than new. A couple weeks later, the clunk came back. Put in a new pair of ES sway bar bushings and all is golden. That was 15,000 miles ago.
There is a lot of things I like about this car. Mileage and performance is great. Handles well and is good on long drives. It rides a lot better than our new Elantra and mileage is comparable. We're going to keep this one for a while.
Wanted to clarify a couple things. I did the struts and control arms all in 1 project. Struts were $100 ea. Control arms were about $100 ea, Ordered them on ebay. A couple weeks afterwards I had to replace the rotors and pads. She wore the pad rivets into the rotor and grooved a rotor. These rotors warp from tire shop or diy mechanics that crank down the lug nuts too tight and they don't use a torque wrench. They only need 80ft/lbs of torque - that's not very much. Look it up, it should be in the owners manual. This is why the rotors warp. It's a cheap, throw away part. Don't bother turning them unless you got a thing for your brake mechanic. cuz you'll be back before a year goes by. Using the parking brake when your pads are hot can cause problems too. But only if they are REAL hot.
Bought the Energy Suspension swaybar bushings from FLAPS. Bought a pair on Amazon and they didn't fit even though the seller indicated they would. ES sells them in a universal kit. New bolts, clamps and grease. One of the easiest repairs you can do yourself. I was surprised to see a 21mm bar. Most of these cheaply built cars use a 18 or 19mm bar.
If we get another 80 or 100k out of this front end I'll be amazed. the TRE's and the ball joint do not have grease fittings. If I could have found them assembled to the control arms, I would have bought those. Grease fittings are good.
Installed new readi struts. Don't bother reusing your old spring and bushing. It's faster, easier and safer to buy the whole strut pre assembled. Total cost was around $400. Mechanic wanted $600 just to do the struts.
This whole project started because of the infamous "clunk" and wobble when braking. Keep in mind, this is the wifes' car. I rarely drive it. She brought it to Brake Team where they diagnosed a bad strut and quoted her a discounted price of $600 as if that was a good deal. Of course I freaked out and promised her a new front end for half that cost. After 4 hrs in the driveway, everything was done and the car drives better than new. A couple weeks later, the clunk came back. Put in a new pair of ES sway bar bushings and all is golden. That was 15,000 miles ago.
There is a lot of things I like about this car. Mileage and performance is great. Handles well and is good on long drives. It rides a lot better than our new Elantra and mileage is comparable. We're going to keep this one for a while.
Wanted to clarify a couple things. I did the struts and control arms all in 1 project. Struts were $100 ea. Control arms were about $100 ea, Ordered them on ebay. A couple weeks afterwards I had to replace the rotors and pads. She wore the pad rivets into the rotor and grooved a rotor. These rotors warp from tire shop or diy mechanics that crank down the lug nuts too tight and they don't use a torque wrench. They only need 80ft/lbs of torque - that's not very much. Look it up, it should be in the owners manual. This is why the rotors warp. It's a cheap, throw away part. Don't bother turning them unless you got a thing for your brake mechanic. cuz you'll be back before a year goes by. Using the parking brake when your pads are hot can cause problems too. But only if they are REAL hot.
Bought the Energy Suspension swaybar bushings from FLAPS. Bought a pair on Amazon and they didn't fit even though the seller indicated they would. ES sells them in a universal kit. New bolts, clamps and grease. One of the easiest repairs you can do yourself. I was surprised to see a 21mm bar. Most of these cheaply built cars use a 18 or 19mm bar.
If we get another 80 or 100k out of this front end I'll be amazed. the TRE's and the ball joint do not have grease fittings. If I could have found them assembled to the control arms, I would have bought those. Grease fittings are good.
Last edited by popkorn; 01-29-2014 at 07:12 PM.
01-29-2014 | 09:17 PM
#13
Member
Joined: 01-13-2013
Posts: 78
From: Belvidere,IL
Had same problem with front rotors warping every few months. Purchased Premium rotors from Napa for twice the price as low end. You can see they are much thicker. Adjusted rear brakes(this is huge,not only improves stopping A LOT but also saves your front brakes as well) and have not noticed any warping after eight months. If your are going to replace,spend a little more so you don't have to replace as often.
01-29-2014 | 10:18 PM
#14
Moderator
Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 25,345
From: Fredericksburg,VA
Steel wheels call for 100 lb-ft torque. Not sure about other wheels. Don't know where you got 80 from.
If you paid $100 each for "complete" strut assemblies, you got the "cheap chinese" ones. I have no problem with that, it just seems strange with the tenor of the post "pay more get best". Maybe it's a combination of my eyes and popkorns numbers.
You also might try trolling the SEARCH, All of what you are getting at has been posted and re posted hundreds of times.
If you paid $100 each for "complete" strut assemblies, you got the "cheap chinese" ones. I have no problem with that, it just seems strange with the tenor of the post "pay more get best". Maybe it's a combination of my eyes and popkorns numbers.
You also might try trolling the SEARCH, All of what you are getting at has been posted and re posted hundreds of times.
07-05-2014 | 06:58 PM
#16
Joined: 07-05-2014
Posts: 1
From: San Dimas, Ca.
Chev HHR suspension front end
Hi fellow HHR owners, Have you had trouble with the control arms, struts,and links? Took our 2008 HHR in to have the oil changed at dealer. They said i needed two new tires on the front end. Had just put tires on a few months ago.
Checking further we found the rear bushing on control arms (AC Delco) were broken. Replaced whole control arms with with grease fittings on the ball joints. (AC Delco didn't have grease fitting)
Did anyone else have this problem? Janet
Checking further we found the rear bushing on control arms (AC Delco) were broken. Replaced whole control arms with with grease fittings on the ball joints. (AC Delco didn't have grease fitting)
Did anyone else have this problem? Janet
07-05-2014 | 11:02 PM
#17
Senior Member
Joined: 06-20-2011
Posts: 737
From: Savanna Illinois
I bought a kit of tools from Harbor Freight just to be able to press bearing and such at home. When I was doing the rest of my front end last summer I got the Moog bushings from Autozone and put them in just to make a complete job of it all.
The ball joints I got from Autozone had grease zirks too. It bothers me a little that they are not riveted in but the bolts do the job just fine.
The original bushings looked fine and the ball joints seemed to be nice and tight too so, it was probably over kill but as uncle Ted says “Over kill is good for you”
The ball joints I got from Autozone had grease zirks too. It bothers me a little that they are not riveted in but the bolts do the job just fine.
The original bushings looked fine and the ball joints seemed to be nice and tight too so, it was probably over kill but as uncle Ted says “Over kill is good for you”
07-06-2014 | 02:24 PM
#18
Moderator
Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 25,345
From: Fredericksburg,VA
Hi fellow HHR owners, Have you had trouble with the control arms, struts,and links? Took our 2008 HHR in to have the oil changed at dealer. They said i needed two new tires on the front end. Had just put tires on a few months ago.
Checking further we found the rear bushing on control arms (AC Delco) were broken. Replaced whole control arms with with grease fittings on the ball joints. (AC Delco didn't have grease fitting)
Did anyone else have this problem? Janet
Checking further we found the rear bushing on control arms (AC Delco) were broken. Replaced whole control arms with with grease fittings on the ball joints. (AC Delco didn't have grease fitting)
Did anyone else have this problem? Janet
Type "lower control arm" into the SEARCH box at the top of the page. You will get 100's of hits. And the struts and the sway bar links and the sway bar bushings and the hubs. These are some of the MOST posted about problems, they usually occur around the 75,000 mile mark.
03-01-2022 | 05:47 PM
#19
New Member
Joined: 10-16-2010
Posts: 14
From: Glenview Illinois
Hello all,
I am fairly new here. I have a 2007 HHR 2LT with the 2.4. I bought this car with 36,000 from the local Chevy dealership. It now has 105,000 miles.
During my time I have now put three sets of front pads, two calipers, two rotors, two end links and rear shoes on it. Now yesterday I take it to the dealership to have the oil changed. They noted to me that the front end felt considerably "loose." This is something I have noticed as well. When you go over imperfections in the road etc. it just feels "worn".
They come to me and say that it needs both control arms replaced at a cost of $600.00! Obviously I'm not paying for that.
My main issue is this: I'm not happy at all with the performance of the front end components I've had to replace. I've owned many Chevy's over the years and never had issues like this, on this level this early into the life of the car. In terms of mileage that is. In my eyes, this is early to have had to put three sets of pads, and now to think of it, two sets of rotors on a car.
This is not to mention it is due for struts as well. It is also due for the 100,000 trans service. I'm really disappointed in this car from this standpoint. I've owned enough cars and worked on enough to know that this is excessive.
It was actually suggested to me, by the service adviser, to trade the car if I could within the next 6 months. That was the "best" option in his opnion. What? I've been out of work for 6 months. Not to mention that in 6 months I'll only owe 18 months on the car!
I have fully intended to get 200k out of this car. Outside of these issues, I've been quite satisfied with the car. Gets great fuel mileage. (I've seen as much as 37 on the highway.) Really good power for the type of car, I think. You can carry a ton of stuff, it's versatile and that Pioneer stereo is great. The remote fobs are cheap and I've had to work on those several times. But overall the other things have been Ok.
Have any of you guys experienced this much work on the front end of these cars? I'm sorry, I think it is excessive and the suggestion to trade it is absurd in my opinion.
Really gives me pause about buying another Chevy. Had planned on getting an Equinox after this one is done. But I'm rethinking this now.
Any input is greatly appreciated.
Frustrated!
Thanks
-Mac
I am fairly new here. I have a 2007 HHR 2LT with the 2.4. I bought this car with 36,000 from the local Chevy dealership. It now has 105,000 miles.
During my time I have now put three sets of front pads, two calipers, two rotors, two end links and rear shoes on it. Now yesterday I take it to the dealership to have the oil changed. They noted to me that the front end felt considerably "loose." This is something I have noticed as well. When you go over imperfections in the road etc. it just feels "worn".
They come to me and say that it needs both control arms replaced at a cost of $600.00! Obviously I'm not paying for that.
My main issue is this: I'm not happy at all with the performance of the front end components I've had to replace. I've owned many Chevy's over the years and never had issues like this, on this level this early into the life of the car. In terms of mileage that is. In my eyes, this is early to have had to put three sets of pads, and now to think of it, two sets of rotors on a car.
This is not to mention it is due for struts as well. It is also due for the 100,000 trans service. I'm really disappointed in this car from this standpoint. I've owned enough cars and worked on enough to know that this is excessive.
It was actually suggested to me, by the service adviser, to trade the car if I could within the next 6 months. That was the "best" option in his opnion. What? I've been out of work for 6 months. Not to mention that in 6 months I'll only owe 18 months on the car!
I have fully intended to get 200k out of this car. Outside of these issues, I've been quite satisfied with the car. Gets great fuel mileage. (I've seen as much as 37 on the highway.) Really good power for the type of car, I think. You can carry a ton of stuff, it's versatile and that Pioneer stereo is great. The remote fobs are cheap and I've had to work on those several times. But overall the other things have been Ok.
Have any of you guys experienced this much work on the front end of these cars? I'm sorry, I think it is excessive and the suggestion to trade it is absurd in my opinion.
Really gives me pause about buying another Chevy. Had planned on getting an Equinox after this one is done. But I'm rethinking this now.
Any input is greatly appreciated.
Frustrated!
Thanks
-Mac
At about 60K, the original LCAs wore out (back bushing) and I replaced them with Moog parts. Those lasted about 30K when the ball joints went out and one of the rear bushings again tore. I had saved the original LCA's so I bought the Moog "Problem Solver" rear bushings and pressed them into the original LCAs and installed TRW ball joints...that was March of 2019. Well, here we are again the the ball joints are worn, except this time they're bolt in's and about $38 ea. Amazon. Got to agree with the other comments....cheap/bad design....not made to last, but I like the car. So, for about $75 and maybe an hour's time, I'll drop in the new ball joints when the weather warms. I admit I'm hard on cars, and I installed Enkei anti-roll bars years ago (much better feeling) so I'm probably harder on these parts than most people, but given the price of cars these days, what's another $75?
Buy the shop manual, buy the tools, buy a jack and stands, buy the parts and do it yourself, and you'll still be ahead. It's really not that hard, and since it's already broke, you probably aren't going to make it worse. And then you'll have everything you need for next time!
03-01-2022 | 06:11 PM
#20
Moderator
Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 25,345
From: Fredericksburg,VA
Time to post the caveat;
The ONLY Ball joints currently available for a HHR SS are on complete LCAs from GM. Any listing that claims ball joints or LCA "fits all HHR" will not fit SS. They may "fit" but the stud of the ball joint is larger, The hole in the knuckle is larger, it will "fit" into the hole but will be loose.
If anyone has found a source of HHR SS ball joints please let us know the vendor and part number.
The ONLY Ball joints currently available for a HHR SS are on complete LCAs from GM. Any listing that claims ball joints or LCA "fits all HHR" will not fit SS. They may "fit" but the stud of the ball joint is larger, The hole in the knuckle is larger, it will "fit" into the hole but will be loose.
If anyone has found a source of HHR SS ball joints please let us know the vendor and part number.