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2.2 crankshaft seal leaking

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Old 06-30-2013 | 07:55 PM
  #1  
Hamadock's Avatar
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From: San Antonio Texas
2.2 crankshaft seal leaking

Hello all,
I originally posted this in the wrong forum. Sorry..new member. I am looking for any advice on replacing the crankshaft seal on my 2006 2.2L HHR. I have accessed the area through the R/H fender well. Are there any instructional links for this task? Looking for any special info like pullers or advice on how to proceed.
Thanks in Advance
Bryan Hamadock
Old 06-30-2013 | 08:19 PM
  #2  
843de's Avatar
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to the forum!

You can usually just wiggle the pulley off once you've removed the bolt, a few gentle taps will help.

Once the pulley is off, you can carefully pry out the old seal with a flat bladed screw driver, use care to not damage the soft aluminum around the seal.

Using a seal installer(Harbor Freight has them cheap)tap in the new seal.

Get yourself a new crankshaft pulley bolt(about $6), they are "torque to yield" so you shouldn't reuse them. Torque the new bolt to 75ft lbs + 75 degrees, which works out to about an additional 1/6 of a turn past when the torque wrench clicks.

Reinstall the serpentine belt, good time to change it if it's the original, and pop the fender liner and wheel back on. You're good to go.
Old 07-01-2013 | 09:29 AM
  #3  
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From: San Antonio Texas
Originally Posted by 843de
to the forum!

You can usually just wiggle the pulley off once you've removed the bolt, a few gentle taps will help.

Once the pulley is off, you can carefully pry out the old seal with a flat bladed screw driver, use care to not damage the soft aluminum around the seal.

Using a seal installer(Harbor Freight has them cheap)tap in the new seal.

Get yourself a new crankshaft pulley bolt(about $6), they are "torque to yield" so you shouldn't reuse them. Torque the new bolt to 75ft lbs + 75 degrees, which works out to about an additional 1/6 of a turn past when the torque wrench clicks.

Reinstall the serpentine belt, good time to change it if it's the original, and pop the fender liner and wheel back on. You're good to go.
Thank you very much for your insight.
Old 07-01-2013 | 09:49 AM
  #4  
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One thing I forgot to mention, these engines won't tolerate reverse rotation well. So lacking the special GM tool to keep from turning the crank, I used a 1/2" impact to zip the bolt out.

Since the bolt is only torqued to 75ft lbs, the impact gun broke it loose in a fraction of a second. The crank didn't budge, and after 110,000 additional trouble free miles, I feel OK about violating the "no impact tools shall be used on an engine" rule.
Old 07-01-2013 | 09:53 AM
  #5  
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Check your PM Hamadock.
Old 08-05-2013 | 12:15 PM
  #6  
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Joined: 09-03-2006
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From: chicago
Yea im in the same situation have to do this on my 2007 ls 165000 my question is ,when you installed the bolt do have to hold the crankshaft pulley when using a impact? or just spin it on with a ratchet and then torque it down.. this is first my time doing this..thanks
Old 08-05-2013 | 08:20 PM
  #7  
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My Mitchell says 74 ft. lb. + 125 degrees.

The pulley/balancer is keyed just screw the bolt down.

As Mike said DO NOT turn the crankshaft in reverse (counter clockwise) the timing chain WILL jump a tooth.
Old 08-05-2013 | 11:39 PM
  #8  
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Thanks for the update on the torque and degree specs Don, duly noted.
Old 08-06-2013 | 09:40 AM
  #9  
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My Mitchell has been "wrong" before, so I will not swear by it. It seems to be identical to the 2006 Helm book even for 2010 vehicles (Throttle by cable, 1 ign pack, window controls on console etc.).
Old 08-06-2013 | 10:36 AM
  #10  
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From: chicago
Ok so the key will hold it in place and keep it from rotating correct ..thanks don brew for all your time


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