Hey Guys and Gals, New to the forum since I just picked up this car at auction.

Its a 2006 HHR 2.4l. At the auction the battery was completely dead. They used a jumper box to get power to it. I watched on of the service guys cut a brand new key, key went in fine, dash lights up but it wouldn't do anything. I used that famous search bar and came to the conclusion he just didn't program the key (takes about 30 mins from what I read since there was no original key).

So I purchase the car since no one else was interested in a car that wouldn't start. I have the car delivered yesterday. I replaced the battery this morning and went to program the key.

This next part is where I'm a little confused and could use some help. When I went to program the key the Car lock light goes off after 4-5 seconds? The programming information I have says to leave the key in the on position and the light will go off after about 10 mins, then repeat that procedure 2 more times. Doesn't that mean that this key is programmed already?

If so, what's the next thing I should check to try to get it to start? Luckily the person before me kept all the service records in the glove compartment and it seems like everything was in perfect working order less than 500 miles ago.

Any suggestions you might have to get me in the right directions would be awesome. Thanks in advance.

 

Hi Kinzik, to the forums!!

Make sure the key has the + in a circle symbol.

Step 1: Insert key and turn to on. (Not start) The security warning light will be on. Leave in this condition for 10 min, or until light goes out.

Turn key off

Step 2: Turn to on (not start) the security warning light will be on. Leave in this condition for 10 min or until light goes out.

Turn Key off

Step 3: Turn to on (not start) the security warning light will be on. Leave in this condition for 10 min or until the light goes out.

Turn Key off

Step 4: Car will start

It may be programmed, but go ahead and try the procedure anyway.

Is the condition "No start" or "no crank"?

What is going to make this difficult, is the dead/replaced battery has probably caused the codes to be cleared.

 

Its no crank, car doesn't do a thing when you try to get it to crank. I'll go ahead an do try the procedure, i'll just time the 10 mins out. I'll post results later this afternoon. Thanks for the quick reply.

 

The learn procedure is predicated upon having the correct key blank; it MUST have the + in a circle logo on it.
And it will not work on a bad battery; 12 V is a dead battery 12.6 V is a good battery.

What points did the car jockey attach the cables to?

You can get a digital Owner manual via the link in my sig.

You should check the recalls on the car, maybe it needs the ignition recal, in which case the keys will be free. https://my.chevrolet.com/recalls

I bet that, if it was a repo, the owner may have committed some sabotage.

 

Welcome to the site, if you just recharged the battery it probably is a dead cell and you’ll need to replace the battery

Also, check the fuse box under the hood

 

Won't a less-than-fully charged new battery suffer under the drain of three, ten minute periods left on? Can a charger be left connected during these periods to keep the thing hot for the start up?
I'd also turn off the daytime running lights for the duration, each time the key is turned on.

My car would suck the battery down in 30 minutes for sure.

 

Ok update time
1) reprogramming the key did not work. Steps followed just as listed above
2) Correct key was cut b111-pt and it has the circle with the + in it.
3) I did a vin check on the car and two recalls are still left open on it. 1st is for IGNITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT, 2nd REPLACE IGNITION LOCK CYLINDER AND IGNITION KEY.
4) Battery was replaced not charged.

So it looks like the dealer ship will replaced the ignition switch and give me two new keys but I would have to tow it there. Also if I do have it towed there and that's not the problem..... I guess I'm towing it back aswell. Any other suggestions before I call for a tow?

 

Those 2 recalls shouldn't hamper starting the car as they where safety recalls. Probably best to start checking fuses and links. When it was boosted was it up front or right on the battery? Can you manually turn the motor over, not seized. If you have all the paper work, maybe you could contact the last owner and see why it ended up in auction.

 

Your best bet is to get a DVOM and some time to physically verify every fuse under the hood and on the BCM, AFTER replacing the battery. Then check the relays.

Inspect all of the wires for addon things, like buy here/pay here GPS immobilizers.

An unprogrammed key will not prevent cranking!

Check your PM for a gift.

 

I just checked all the fuses, #5 and the other larger relays I moved around to see if I could get it to do anything and nothing. It was jumped up front. Looked like the positive terminal near the fuse box and they grounded it to the body. I checked to make sure it wasn't seized at the auction. I'm going to try to get a code reader today and see if I can pull any codes on it.

Previous owner died, abandoned property auction.