as stated above the fluids are full. but the new t-stat has got the car staying around 189-198 with the fan staying on constantly.

 

Did you turn the a/c off? The fan is always on when it's on. I am guessing air in the system was the prob,that you mention blown hoses.

 

Yes I turned it off. And now the fan is staying on constantly.

 

How about defroster that is the a/c also.

 

I've never used the defroster until yesterday in the city.

Hint, it wasn't on.

 

Just for info. The fan comes on at about 219F and runs until about 180F.

You did get a 180F t-stat? Yes that is vital.

 

the 180 is the only one that any of the parts stores around me sell for the car. And I tested the old one it started to open up around 190.

 

How ever, since I changed the t-stat, I was wondering how long should I leave the car running on the ramps (for the angle to help air from the heater core) to make sure that its all out. And no I cant afford the dealers fancy vacuum job.

 

Alright, the culprit finally gave me a clue. Seems the water pump finally gave up completely, tell me if this sounds right to y'all.

No heat coming from the heater core, only after applying some pedal does it actually get hot/warm and cools off immediately after letting my foot off the pedal.

Sound about right for a water pump being shot?

 

If the water pump was "shot", it would run hot in no time. You said it was staying around 189-198 with the new T-stat, so that should rule out a water pump problem.
Fwiw. The water pumps on the ecotecs are pretty durable. Not too many failures with these.

The heater core not blowing hot sounds like either you have an air bubble in the cooling system(not bled completely) or you have a blend door problem in the HVAC box.
If it would blow warm before the T-stat change, then I would think it's an air bubble.