Will check first thing in the morning. The thing that keeps perplexing me is that dang plug and the plug though. Will post when I check it out. Still trying to figure out a bypass, If it is the switch, I still need to close the thing :)

 

I have checked both fuses; the one under the hood and the other in the fuse panel. I have checked and confirmed the ground (negative as I refer to) is good. I also checked that I am getting a positive signal at the motor plug (pin 1 in diagram above). AllData said to use a 3 amp fused ground on any of the wires in the plug. I checked at the switch as well at the motor connector. Nothing. My next ask is how do you check the RAP Relay Coil Control. I have 2 motors and have checked both while plugged in and get nothing so I am hoping this is it. Or at the very least, how do I bypass to get the sunroof closed. If I can at least get it closed, I can then worry about it later. I will finish replacing the engine tomorrow and would love to get it out on the road. Thanks in advance

 

If you are in the middle of an engine replacement, seems like a bad idea to have the battery connected.

 

The RAP relay only comes into play in the first few seconds after you remove the key. It keeps the window circuit hot until the driver exits the vehicle. It is a second source of voltage not the primary.

 

I assume when someone requests schematics that they know how to read them. Note that the switches go to ground; that means the signals are ground.

 

Well, the battery was connected until I started to replace the engine, at which time I disconnected it. The engine will be in it tomorrow and the battery will be reconnected at which time I will be getting back on this issue. Just trying to get things in a row since I will be at the shop and away from my computer while there