2008 cooling fan air direction?
#21
Tell me how it can fail to open. Wax melts and expands when it gets hot. Maybe, if the wax was to find an escape route from the sealed brass capsule. Or using a higher temp t-stat. If the spring breaks it would stick open. Maybe, if you don't use anti-freeze or use the wrong product and let it sit for a few years it could corrode shut.
This is the 21st century.
I posted a relevant link earlier.
I just read a "certified mechanic" that claims that dirty oil can do it. The same guy says that if the engine seizes from overheating you need to replace the t-stat to fix it.
He shows a picture of a t-stat with transferred rust on it, evidently that proves that stainless steel and brass can rust together.
https://vehiclefreak.com/how-to-unst...stat-in-a-car/
This is the 21st century.
I posted a relevant link earlier.
I just read a "certified mechanic" that claims that dirty oil can do it. The same guy says that if the engine seizes from overheating you need to replace the t-stat to fix it.
He shows a picture of a t-stat with transferred rust on it, evidently that proves that stainless steel and brass can rust together.
https://vehiclefreak.com/how-to-unst...stat-in-a-car/
#22
All I can tell you is that I've replaced many failed stats that would not open and caused overheating. I do not believe I have ever seen it on an HHR and will need to see what the difference is. You mention wax. The stats I've seen all fail when the thermal spring has sprung for the last time. You can drop them into boiling water and they do not open.
Do you guys have the technical info form the stats used in the HHR?
Do you guys have the technical info form the stats used in the HHR?
#23
What "thermal" spring. The spring holds the valve closed. The brass capsule has wax in it that melts at a given temperature. In days before anyone cared about poison they were filled with mercury.
It is just a standard 180F t-stat with no secondary valve, IIRC 50mm. The correct ACDelco 131-158 does not have the rubber seal that dislodges and holds the valve open in other designs, that is why we always specify. May people that think nothing ever changed since 1960 think that 190F or 210F is better. Just about any 50mm 180F t-stat will "fit", most will fail.
Seems you need to read something from this century: https://auto.howstuffworks.com/how-d...ystem-work.htm
For those too lazy to click, here is the pertinent excerpt:
They worked the opposite way back when the t-stat's job was to cool the engine.
It is just a standard 180F t-stat with no secondary valve, IIRC 50mm. The correct ACDelco 131-158 does not have the rubber seal that dislodges and holds the valve open in other designs, that is why we always specify. May people that think nothing ever changed since 1960 think that 190F or 210F is better. Just about any 50mm 180F t-stat will "fit", most will fail.
Seems you need to read something from this century: https://auto.howstuffworks.com/how-d...ystem-work.htm
For those too lazy to click, here is the pertinent excerpt:
The secret of the thermostat lies in the small cylinder located on the engine-side of the device. This cylinder is filled with a wax that begins to melt at perhaps 180 degrees F (different thermostats open at different temperatures, but 180 F/82 C is a common temperature). A rod connected to the valve presses into this wax. When the wax melts, it expands significantly and pushes the rod out of the cylinder, opening the valve. If you have read How Thermometers Work and done the experiment with the bottle and the straw, you have seen the same process in action. The wax happens to expand a good bit more because it is changing from a solid to a liquid in addition to expanding from the heat.
#25
I for one have seen a thermostat that leaked wax.
If I was designing a thermostat, I would try to make almost impossible to stick closed, and would be less worried about sticking open. So I'd rather see the spring break than the wax leak out.
Not sure I understand why a spring is even needed. Not saying it isn't, but as the wax cools and shrinks, I would think amdient pressure would push it closed, unless the wax contains some voiltiles with vapor pressure high enough to keep it open.
If I was designing a thermostat, I would try to make almost impossible to stick closed, and would be less worried about sticking open. So I'd rather see the spring break than the wax leak out.
Not sure I understand why a spring is even needed. Not saying it isn't, but as the wax cools and shrinks, I would think amdient pressure would push it closed, unless the wax contains some voiltiles with vapor pressure high enough to keep it open.
#26
Here is another link that goes into a bit more detail about the operation of a t-stat.
https://www.theengineerspost.com/car-thermostat/
https://www.theengineerspost.com/car-thermostat/
#27
Here is another link that goes into a bit more detail about the operation of a t-stat.
https://www.theengineerspost.com/car-thermostat/
https://www.theengineerspost.com/car-thermostat/
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