2008 hhr ac compressor
#11
I just had advanced auto parts scan my computer, no codes current or history to be found, I guess I'll live with no ac until someone can give me a tip on why it went out after having it put in, in August last year and worked great this year until the other day.
#14
No I mean diode in position #9 underhood and the relay in position #15.
How do you know the clutch is good if it is not engaging?
How do you know the clutch is good if it is not engaging?
#16
The fuse in #9 is good and the relay I swapped out with another in #15 the clutch I can spin by hand with just a little resistance
#18
The thing in position #9 that you think is a fuse is supposed to be a DIODE. You would check it by testing for resistance in both directions; if it has resistance in both directions it is bad.
Do you know what a clutch does? Spinning by hand means it is NOT engaged, most likely because the motor is not running. You have to use your eyes and see if the center part is spinning or not. You can test it by jumping a 12V wire to it.
Do you know what a clutch does? Spinning by hand means it is NOT engaged, most likely because the motor is not running. You have to use your eyes and see if the center part is spinning or not. You can test it by jumping a 12V wire to it.
#19
No disrespect, but if you don't know how to work on automotive AC's, best to seek out a pro for some help. I've read all your previous posts and you don't seem to be up on the troubleshooting and such.
FYI. I used to be in the automotive field and have worked on many AC's. First. Put down the basic, 1 gauge AC freon recharger. It is useless as far as doing any type of diagnostics. You need a set of manifold gauges that give both high and low side readings.
Your next place to look is the inline pressure switch. With the correct gauges hooked up, jump the pressure switch. The compressor clutch should engage with the switch jumped (providing the fuses/relays are good as you stated)
Now with the compressor engaged it's time to read those 2 gauges and determine if the freon charge is within specs.
Fwiw. My guess is a bad pressure switch, the wiring harness at the switch or it simply may be unplugged.
FYI. I used to be in the automotive field and have worked on many AC's. First. Put down the basic, 1 gauge AC freon recharger. It is useless as far as doing any type of diagnostics. You need a set of manifold gauges that give both high and low side readings.
Your next place to look is the inline pressure switch. With the correct gauges hooked up, jump the pressure switch. The compressor clutch should engage with the switch jumped (providing the fuses/relays are good as you stated)
Now with the compressor engaged it's time to read those 2 gauges and determine if the freon charge is within specs.
Fwiw. My guess is a bad pressure switch, the wiring harness at the switch or it simply may be unplugged.
#20
I appreciated all you input and yes I've been out of these diagnostic for years I understand what your saying, tomorrow I will dig into this more today I'm done and it's time for a cold beverage physically everything looks good, I will report back in the next few days if I find out what the issue is. Thanks again