2008 HHR SS overheating
08-06-2013 | 02:46 AM
#11
Platinum Member
Joined: 04-09-2006
Posts: 7,039
From: Vancouver, BC, Canada
He's replaced the original thermostat already - it over heated prior to the replacement, and overheats with the new thermostat.
He is looking at a problem not related to what you have suggested.
He is looking at a problem not related to what you have suggested.
08-06-2013 | 09:59 AM
#12
Senior Member
Joined: 06-07-2011
Posts: 2,180
From: SE Mich
This could be a bad radiator cap. Does it "suck in" the upper rad hose after it's cooled? I have had this on another car, and basically the cap would let the coolant out into the overflow reservoir when hot, but would not draw it back in at all as it cooled, so it sucked in all it could from the engine, collapsing the hose.
I was happy to have a fix for under $10. Hope this helps you.
I was happy to have a fix for under $10. Hope this helps you.
08-06-2013 | 12:26 PM
#13
Premium Member
Joined: 10-09-2010
Posts: 14,420
From: Tacoma
Had to have the fan unit replaced on mine it quit coming on, it should come on if you start the car and turn on the air conditioning. Something to check.
08-06-2013 | 01:41 PM
#14
Banned
Joined: 11-19-2008
Posts: 123
From: oregon
1. The original thermostat should have been tested when it came off the car. If it was good, then the trail would have led elsewhere at once.
2. Replacement thermostats should always be tested before being installed.
3. I would immediately pull the replacement thermostat, test it, if good drill a 1/8" bleeder hole (yes, it will take a little longer for engine to heat up - so sue me); make sure coolant level comes up to thermostat housing, install thermostat with bleeder hole in highest position, refill system, do the burping thing, and see what happens.
4. The coolant should definitely be tested for the presence of exhaust gasses (CO); the 1/8" bleeder hole might be enough to handle a small exhaust leak, thereby preventing symptoms. A liquid glass product might seal a modest head gasket exhaust leak.
2. Replacement thermostats should always be tested before being installed.
3. I would immediately pull the replacement thermostat, test it, if good drill a 1/8" bleeder hole (yes, it will take a little longer for engine to heat up - so sue me); make sure coolant level comes up to thermostat housing, install thermostat with bleeder hole in highest position, refill system, do the burping thing, and see what happens.
4. The coolant should definitely be tested for the presence of exhaust gasses (CO); the 1/8" bleeder hole might be enough to handle a small exhaust leak, thereby preventing symptoms. A liquid glass product might seal a modest head gasket exhaust leak.
08-06-2013 | 02:14 PM
#15
Platinum Member
Joined: 04-09-2006
Posts: 7,039
From: Vancouver, BC, Canada
[QUOTE=blacky;715277]
3. I would immediately pull the replacement thermostat, test it, if good drill a 1/8" bleeder hole (yes, it will take a little longer for engine to heat up - so sue me); make sure coolant level comes up to thermostat housing, install thermostat with bleeder hole in highest position, refill system, do the burping thing, and see what happens.
QUOTE]
Obviously you are not that familiar with the HHR Ecotec engines - if the engine is slow to warm up it generates a CEL code indicating it is too slow to warm up, and blanks out the digital temp gauge with "----", and bottoms out the analog temp gauge, and on top of it all, disables the air conditioning.
3. I would immediately pull the replacement thermostat, test it, if good drill a 1/8" bleeder hole (yes, it will take a little longer for engine to heat up - so sue me); make sure coolant level comes up to thermostat housing, install thermostat with bleeder hole in highest position, refill system, do the burping thing, and see what happens.
QUOTE]
Obviously you are not that familiar with the HHR Ecotec engines - if the engine is slow to warm up it generates a CEL code indicating it is too slow to warm up, and blanks out the digital temp gauge with "----", and bottoms out the analog temp gauge, and on top of it all, disables the air conditioning.
08-06-2013 | 03:16 PM
#16
Banned
Joined: 11-19-2008
Posts: 123
From: oregon
Are you more concerned with protecting the engine and finding the problem, which is physical, or bowing to an idiotic EPA mandated computer code?
An infrared thermometer can quantify key inlet and outlet temperatures, distribution of radiator temperature ... and so on ... including heater vents.
If a 1/8" hole is too big, then the thermostat can be replaced with a new one once the trouble is over. By the way, severe overheating can cause a thermostat to fail for good, possibly diverting attention away from the real underlying cause.
An infrared thermometer can quantify key inlet and outlet temperatures, distribution of radiator temperature ... and so on ... including heater vents.
If a 1/8" hole is too big, then the thermostat can be replaced with a new one once the trouble is over. By the way, severe overheating can cause a thermostat to fail for good, possibly diverting attention away from the real underlying cause.
08-06-2013 | 03:20 PM
#17
Platinum Member
Joined: 04-09-2006
Posts: 7,039
From: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Bow out blacky.
08-06-2013 | 04:13 PM
#18
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 06-19-2008
Posts: 13
From: Buffalo
Pull the thermostat and fill from above until you have coolant gushing out from the engine side.
Test the new thermostat in boiling water. Should open before boiling. Carefully with a heat gun also works.
Unless a thermostat already has a bleeder hole, I drill a 1/8" hole. Obviously, the thermostat should be oriented with the hole as high as possible.
An infrared thermometer is always handy - get one if problem persists, if nothing else to get a second opinion on gauges.
It is easy to test for exhaust gasses in the coolant - AutoZone has a kit they rent. Bubbles going by in flow with pressure cap off, or possibly in overflow tank, could indicate a bad head gasket.//
My guess is that the thermostat isn't opening - most likely because the business end (toward engine) is in an air bubble.
Test the new thermostat in boiling water. Should open before boiling. Carefully with a heat gun also works.
Unless a thermostat already has a bleeder hole, I drill a 1/8" hole. Obviously, the thermostat should be oriented with the hole as high as possible.
An infrared thermometer is always handy - get one if problem persists, if nothing else to get a second opinion on gauges.
It is easy to test for exhaust gasses in the coolant - AutoZone has a kit they rent. Bubbles going by in flow with pressure cap off, or possibly in overflow tank, could indicate a bad head gasket.//
My guess is that the thermostat isn't opening - most likely because the business end (toward engine) is in an air bubble.
Last edited by Kylo; 08-06-2013 at 04:23 PM. Reason: adding on
08-06-2013 | 05:48 PM
#19
Platinum Member
Joined: 04-09-2006
Posts: 7,039
From: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Old question: have to checked to ensure the fans are coming on? Turning on the A/c should automatically activate at least one of the fans.
08-06-2013 | 08:01 PM
#20
Banned
Joined: 11-19-2008
Posts: 123
From: oregon
When I said "idiotic EPA mandated computer code," I was serious.
If Whopper is correct, just when you really need a temperature gauge, the computer takes it away. This could be deadly with a relatively cool air bubble trapped behind a closed thermostat - with the head frying from lack of coolant flow.
How about driving on a winter night. For some reason, no heat. Now windshield is fogged up. But there is no AC to clear the windshield. Now you're blind and cold. In the meantime, the head could be frying without any gauge indication. Very stupid.
Most computer cars I've owned had the temperature sending unit to the computer in the water box behind the thermostat. The sending unit to the gauge was screwed into the head. Therefore, regardless of the computer's opinion of the temperature behind the thermostat, the driver could take action based on the head temperature.
If Whopper is correct, just when you really need a temperature gauge, the computer takes it away. This could be deadly with a relatively cool air bubble trapped behind a closed thermostat - with the head frying from lack of coolant flow.
How about driving on a winter night. For some reason, no heat. Now windshield is fogged up. But there is no AC to clear the windshield. Now you're blind and cold. In the meantime, the head could be frying without any gauge indication. Very stupid.
Most computer cars I've owned had the temperature sending unit to the computer in the water box behind the thermostat. The sending unit to the gauge was screwed into the head. Therefore, regardless of the computer's opinion of the temperature behind the thermostat, the driver could take action based on the head temperature.