Unfortunately blacky the time for experimenting is over, Kylo has suffered a rare type of water pump failure, rare enough that looking back over the forum's existence didn't bring another case to light with the same circumstances.

If the diagnosis is correct, the pump probably seized solid taking the drive chain with it. A big concern besides the damage caused by overheating, is whether the engine may have jumped time enough to introduce the pistons to the valves.

As far as an $1,100 repair not being worth fixing, I wouldn't junk an HHR for that amount.

 

Guys thanks for all the help.... to answer some of the questions ...when I was burping the system there was coolant running through the line at the pressure cap but it wasen't a lot maybe a 3rd full, sometimes none, even through I would keep added some. I'm going to talk to the guy doing the work a little more...its going to take some days to get the parts in....I did drive it to the shop..I could drive it for about 20 mins. before it would get even into the 220 F range. I'm in a rural area outside of Buffalo, NY so pretty much open roads no traffic or lights to stop at.....keep you posted thanks for the help.

 

WEAR SAFETY GLASSES.


1. If there is flow, the water pump is turning.

2. See if you get more flow when a helper gives her a little gas (increases rpm), that absolutely confirms water pump is turning. When helper lets off gas, coolant may overflow momentarily - a good sign. When helper first steps on gas coolant gets sucked down into water pump, and level may go down.

2. If you can drive 20 minutes before temperature gets up to 220 F, then the water pump is turning.

3. 220 F is not harmful to the engine.

4. I take it the temperature climbs above 220 F beyond 20 minutes on the road.

5. Check to see if the level in the overflow tank goes up a little when hot, back down to the same level when cool. That would indicate a functioning pressure cap, and system probably full.

6. I would get an infrared thermometer, which is an inexpensive, fun toy, and go exploring for temperatures on the engine, over the radiator surface, hoses, and so on. A very good check on temperature gauge accuracy too - just put the laser dot near the sender.

7. You may have a fairly mundane problem. Maybe you'll discover a plugged radiator feeling with your hand, or using an infrared thermometer.

8. In any case, keep experimenting. If possible stay close to home, and just never the let the temperature get much above 220 F.

9. A 33% solution would be good for this exercise. 33% is better than 50%. 100% will cause serious overheating.

 

I never said to junk an HHR over an $1,100 repair. I said that if the engine and possibly transmission were damaged, it might make sense to junk the car. The $1,100 for the water pump would be just a waste of money in that case.

 

I forgot to mention that service guy said that the pump was still good, but since we got it out I thought we should just replace... he agreed...what's another $120 when I just spent $1000.

 

I sure would be interested to see some pictures of the failed part(s). I'll bet some others on this forum would to.
Since this seems to be a very rare type failure, I'm having problems trying to understand how it could happen without damaging other stuff in there.
(anybody got a picture of the water pump/chain assembly?)

 

Did you actually see the broken water pump chain?

Did the timing chain look ok?

Was lack of lubrication evident?

Was a problem with guides or tensionors evident?

How do you know the original pump is good?

Are you driving it now, or is it in the shop awaiting parts?

The mere fact that the engine did not overheat until at least 20 minutes on the road (say roughly 20 mi) says that coolant was flowing. And if coolant was flowing the water pump chain was not broken.

Please keep us up to date on developments.

 

The timing chain IS the water pump chain.

Sounds to me like the mechanic did not own the special EcoTec water pump tool and tried to remove it the entirely wrong and incredibly expensive way.

 

I had been assuming the 2.4 l engine, which does have a separate water pump/balance shafts chain.

If here the timing chain doubles as the water pump/balance shafts chain, then this thread is ridiculous - because the engine couldn't run without a timing chain.

 

I agree - since the chain also drives the balance shafts and there is limited clearance in there, I really expect there would be major damage, as well as the engine running rough as all get out. PM me your email addy and I will send you a pdf of the 2.0 engine that covers the cooling/balance chain and the timing chain etc. on page 175.

Kylo: several of us have asked you if the cooling fans come on - and you never responded. ????????