Hook the VOM up directly to the battery then under hood.
There are a few codes that might show up, that would not cause the CEL. Clearing codes does not fix anything.

Your voltage readings look NORMAL to me.

 

That ground shown at #2 is the wire that connected to the ground on the transmission - I removed and cleaned up both ends just to be sure.

I will do some more checking on the charging system and see what I can come up with.

Thanks to all for the responses :)

 

Good thanks for the up dates, most folks just clean the transmission end.
This seems simple but I have to ask, how old is the serpentine belt and tensioner, also when the battery light comes on is the AC engaged?

 

Everything is original - belt, tensioner, alternator. The first time the light came on the AC was on but since the battery replacement, it hasn't been used and the light still comes on. I charged up the battery the other day with a 2a charge and it didn't come on as quickly but eventually the battery light did come on. I can finally smell the alternator burning up so I've ordered the alternator, belt and tensioner.

 

Good plan, keep us updated

 

So just to finish this thread off, the alternator replacement did resolve the charging problem.

However I hope I can save someone time in the future and not repeat my mistake. I noticed the electrical connections for the alternator weren't in the exact same place as the original one - they were both closer to the top of the engine.. No biggie I thought. Once I had installed the new belt, tensioner and alternator I realized the wires were tight. In order to attach the wire from the starter, I had to reposition it at the starter - it was sticking straight up so I turned it 90 degrees towards the front to give the length I needed to reach.. That wasn't any gigantic task however the plug for the other connector would not go in as it was interfering with the intake manifold. I tried everything with no luck. So I ended up having to take off the belt and alternator, plug in the alternator and then put it all back together. It goes against the normal way to do it but I guess it was better than trying to return the alternator. The one I got was from Rockauto: VALEO 849108 and although it bolted up, the connections were off enough to cause issues.

Just to top this all off, the day after finishing, the fuel line started leaking in the left rear wheel well area. I see that the NSHTA is investigating the fuel line corrosion so hopefully GM will eventually take responsibility for a very poor and unsafe design that, at least in corrosion prone regions is bound to happen sooner or later.

 

Thanks for the advise, I recommend replacing the fuel lines with the flexible poly lines, it’s not to bad of a task

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/www....ad.php?t=62310

I have done both the stainless steel tubing and the plastic lines.

 

Hmm. I know many years ago (back in my mechanic days) you could rotate the back of the GM alternators to align the wire connection spots. You just had to remove the 4 housing bolts and then the 2 halfs would turn so you could point it in the direction needed. Then replace the 4 bolts.
Not sure if this works on the HHR alternator. Haven't studied one of those yet.

Hey Don. Do you know if that will work on the HHR alternator (generator) ?

 

I don't remember, I know I had one apart once in the dim past.

However this sounds odd, it might turn in the wrong direction. I.E. got put in the wrong box.