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Analog Fuel gauge not correct, all others working

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Old 05-31-2023 | 12:34 PM
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Basist_4's Avatar
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From: MS
Analog Fuel gauge not correct, all others working

I have a new to me 2006 LT. All gauges appear to be working fine, except the fuel gauge.
No CEL/warning/error lights displayed.
I do also get the intermittent Traction Control light, but a quick reset of the fuses under the hood seems to clear that.

The digital "Miles remaining" display also appears to be reading correctly...

What fuse(s) deal with the analog fuel gauge?
Where is the connection for the gauge located by the tank?

Any other helpful hints/suggestions/photots/tutorials are welcome.
Old 05-31-2023 | 12:38 PM
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Welcome to the site. First I suggest you tighten the 4 7mm bolts in the under hood fuse box.


Then under the passenger side rear axle area you’ll see the wire harness to the body check that for corrosion and bent pins .
apply a little dielectric grease .
Old 05-31-2023 | 06:33 PM
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To answer the question: the sender is part of the pump assembly. You have to remove the tank to replace the pump. All of the wires and tubes are on the top of the tank. If the pump is running don't worry about fuses.
Old 05-31-2023 | 06:49 PM
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Interesting, the miles to empty is working. To me that seems to indicate that the sending unit is working. Perhaps a bad connection at the gauge itself?
Old 05-31-2023 | 09:57 PM
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What does " a quick reset of the fuses under the hood" mean? Intermittent traction light usually has something to do with a OBD performance code; mostly a VVT valve getting ready to fail.

The gauge is driven digitally by the BCM. Has the Instrument Panel been replaced? Everything on the panel gets there on 2 wires, it is odd that the gauge would be the only thing wrong.
Old 06-01-2023 | 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by RJ_RS_SS_350
Interesting, the miles to empty is working. To me that seems to indicate that the sending unit is working. Perhaps a bad connection at the gauge itself?
bad connection is my working theory...I've been researching and youtubing but haven't found a definitive solution.
Old 06-01-2023 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by donbrew
What does " a quick reset of the fuses under the hood" mean? Intermittent traction light usually has something to do with a OBD performance code; mostly a VVT valve getting ready to fail.

The gauge is driven digitally by the BCM. Has the Instrument Panel been replaced? Everything on the panel gets there on 2 wires, it is odd that the gauge would be the only thing wrong.
In my research so far, a few videos (and Oldblue) have pointed to the fusebox under the hood being the culprit for some of the error light issues. Because It vibrates so much, the 4 retaining bolts and the fuses themselves have a tendency to shake themselves loose. I pop the cover, give a firm press down on all the fuses/relays to make sure they are seated properly and that appears to work...at least is has in the case of the Traction Control warning light. I get the light, do the reset, and I'm good for a few days before it shows up again...

I agree that it's odd the only thing that appears to be not working right is the analog fuel gauge. That's why I'm here...looking for some educated help!

I just got the car so I don't have any idea of the history on it. It was purchased online out of Illinois for my mom to replace her flooded 2008 HHR.
Old 06-01-2023 | 03:49 PM
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Tighten those bolts good and tight!
Old 06-01-2023 | 04:43 PM
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Did this suddenly come up?
All of the information displayed on the I/P comes on the low speed GMLAN serial data line, 1 wire. So it must be the fuel gauge is broken, if all of the other indicator lights work. turn signal, hi beam, air bag, seat belt, batt, brake, ABS, traction, oil pressure and analog coolant temp.

The fuel pump/level sensor send data top the ECM the ECM sends data to the BCM that does calculation and sends data to the I/P.
Old 06-02-2023 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Oldblue
Tighten those bolts good and tight!
I went out today and loosened all 4 completely out and retightened them (Middle, top, bottom L, bottom r) a little at a time to try and equally distribute the load. I heard a little "crack" as some of the tension popped and resetteled.

I got them pretty tight, but I'm afraid to tighten them down too much...they're aluminum, right? I definitely don't want to strip them. Is there a torque spec for those bolts?


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