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Another No Start issue, with a twist

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Old 08-29-2016 | 07:56 PM
  #1  
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Another No Start issue, with a twist

All right guys, not sure if anyone is still around from the old days, but I'm back. At least briefly.


So, no start, no crank. Not a hint of trouble until last Friday. It's not the battery, old one tested good but I bought a new one anyways. (The original battery is almost ten, I didn't trade it in as a core, Im'ma put it in a museum or somesuch) New battery is in the car now.

Anyways, all the dash lights act normal, safety interlock light does NOT stay on. (I mentioned that for a reason) I can hear fuel pump and various relays acting as I guess they should but the starter doesn't even try to do anything. The dash lights seem to act as if the car started. (CEL has been on for a PO449, evap system, for a month or so... Haven't had time to sort that out. So yeah, CEL stays on everything else acts like the car is running) Because of the CEL I can't try a remote start.


Fuses and relays are all seated, both the "body" fuse box and the main box under the hood, fuses I thought might be relevant have been tested. The car has had the ignition replaced via recall just last year.


Now, what is different... Besides the no start, of course.

1. As soon as I turn the key to the "ON" position all the doors lock. Before this issue they would lock when put into gear.

2. With the ignition in run I can not get the shifter out of "Park".


Both of those issues look like the car forgot my key chip config, but both keys do the same and as I said the security light goes out as it should.


One last thing, This afternoon I tried to clear that CEL just to see if it was somehow involved and it won't clear. Not sure how relevant that is but it had cleared with the same laptop/dongle/thingy in the past but came back after starting the car... Now it won't clear at all.


Ideas? (short of handing it off to a dealer)



.
Old 08-29-2016 | 09:02 PM
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The CEL won't clear because it is no "permanent" which doesn't mean what it sounds like. It will clear itself after 50 cold starts with no code.

Have you had the ignition recall done?
Old 08-29-2016 | 09:07 PM
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Yeah... Ignition recall was done. I mentioned that in there somewhere I think.
Old 08-29-2016 | 09:31 PM
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Brake lights? Believe it or not the interlock depends on them working. #9 fuse inside box.

Does the radio work? Does the remote door lock work? (fuse 23 inside)

Are you sure the DIC is programmed right?

Could be the BCM has gone whacky, that unfortunately does need a Tech2.
Attached Thumbnails Another No Start issue, with a twist-interlock.png  
Old 08-29-2016 | 09:35 PM
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The P0449 is most likely the EVAP vent solenoid (near the gas tank) about $20 15 minutes under the car.

Does the security light flash when you lock with the fob? It is supposed to.

Have you changed keys recently?

Here is the anti-theft circuit.
Attached Thumbnails Another No Start issue, with a twist-sec1.png   Another No Start issue, with a twist-sec2.png  
Old 08-29-2016 | 09:50 PM
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No on changing keys... Nothing since the recall was done last year.

Brake lights, remote lock/unlock and radio all work and yeah the security light flashes when locked with the fob.


I haven't changed any DIC (driver information center) programming since I bought the car... If that's what you meant.
Old 08-29-2016 | 10:05 PM
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Check the ground in the back by the battery, and as lame as it sounds check the new battery, it might not be fully charged.
Old 08-29-2016 | 10:17 PM
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But the old battery was fully charged... I'll have to check the new and the ground tomorrow. It does certainly have "some ground" (bad term) but if it were corrosion making an incomplete ground the starter would try to engage. (In my experience with other vehicles, anyways) It's not even trying with this.


Any ideas about this thing not being able to shift out of park? I mean with the key on I should be able to get it out of park even without it running.
Old 08-30-2016 | 05:15 AM
  #9  
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With the BTSI(Brake Transmission Shift Interlock) solenoid being controlled by the BCM, it's acting like an undervolt/grounding issue.

I'd check the battery ground, and also the ground strap up front which goes to the radiator support, plus the Positive connection by the fuse box.

Old 08-30-2016 | 08:57 AM
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Alrighty Then.... There is a major connector just below the main fuse box, has about 10 or so wires. Not sure exactly what all is involved on that connector. Seems a mouse or squirrel decided they were tasty. I hope I can reconstruct this mess.


I'll let everybody know how it goes.

Thanks guys.


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